UKC

This route is significantly easier and safer in colder, ramped out snow conditions, rather than warmer conditions where rock fall is a significant hazard in the slabs.
Approach the base of the glacier, either climb the glacial ice (front points) or gain on the rock to the right (still steep), being wary of rock fall.
Cross the glacier (crevasses) to the far side of the bowl, arriving at the base of leftwards-tending, overlapping and scree-covered slabs. Later in the day this is a collecting point for rock fall from the edge of the snow cap higher up the broad ridge.
Tend right up and across the slabs until the ridge is gained, the follow this to the snow cap and up to the summit.
Descend by the same route, if rock fall from the snow cap then stay on the ridge and abseil out of the rock fall line.

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