Between Ronnie the Axe and Mack the Knife a black streak runs the full height of the cliff a fine route with excellent technical climbing but with only thin marginal protection on the upper wall. Start off the stepped ledge and climb a thin crack to below the roof and fail safe protection in a crack over the lip. Use an undercut pocket in the roof to reach small breaks above use these to pull over the roof rightwards to a good break right of the crack. Move up to stand on the ramp of Ronnie the Axe and arrange protection (small friends and RP’s) step up again to a quartz side pull and use this to place crucial RP’s in the thin crack on the left. Climb direct up the black streak to a good hold and gain a good ledge out right, continue straight up from this to finish.
T Rankin and N Morrison 08/Jul/2008.
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Route of Interest
Two Litle Boys
Grade: E6 6b ***
(Rora Head)