UKC

120m, 4 pitches. A wandering route that traverses and ascends the Upper Crag, a mixed bag of face, crack, chimney, and roof climbing, mixed with bushwhacking across huge ledges. Protection is variously good and bad, with the crux well protected.

1st pitch (50m): Start at the left side of the huge cave in a chimney, follow the ledge to the far left and set a station at the corner (f3).
2nd pitch (25m): Move up and angle right from the belay into an inside corner, following a crack under a large roof opening to the left. Climb the crack, then move left onto the slab and pop the roof at the narrow point on the left. Above the roof move right to a chimney belay (f6b).
3rd pitch (55m): Up the chimney, move left and up the small face, cross the bushes to a face on the right side of a large inside corner. Up the poorly protected face to the right and larger ledges, setting the belay on a small ledge and deep corner (f5a)
4th pitch (30m): Move right and up the faces and ledges on decent protection, up to the small concrete hut which is the final belay station (f4).

Carter Mandrik 26/May/2013.

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