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28m. Small tufas and then an immaculate crimpy wall.

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rachelpearce01 28 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: George went first and worked out the crux to the first boulder problem, involving really small crap side pulls up to a little jug by the clip. He couldn’t work out the next blank section. I then had a go and managed to figure out the second crux, involving going out left from the good to a crap pancake pinch and then getting left foot really high on a good foot hole and changing the right hand into an undercut and then popping for a little side pull edge with the right. I then managed to do both the cruxes together clean and felt I would get it. Then when it came to my turn again even the first crux which I was able to repeatedly do felt impossible. Conditions were pretty bad, really hot and full on sun. Lost a lot of layers! The climb itself was quite good, 1 or 2 * slightly esoteric. Could do with a lot more traffic, no chalk on it and the tufas felt quite crumbly. But the crux moves were really cool and interesting to work out.
 
Show beta
βeta: George went first and worked out the crux to the first boulder problem, involving really small crap side pulls up to a little jug by the clip. He couldn’t work out the next blank section. I then had a go and managed to figure out the second crux, involving going out left from the good to a crap pancake pinch and then getting left foot really high on a good foot hole and changing the right hand into an undercut and then popping for a little side pull edge with the right. I then managed to do both the cruxes together clean and felt I would get it. Then when it came to my turn again even the first crux which I was able to repeatedly do felt impossible. Conditions were pretty bad, really hot and full on sun. Lost a lot of layers! The climb itself was quite good, 1 or 2 * slightly esoteric. Could do with a lot more traffic, no chalk on it and the tufas felt quite crumbly. But the crux moves were really cool and interesting to work out.

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Route of Interest

Monostery ext

Grade: 7c ***
(Balogeri)