Kyloe Crag (Kyloe Out) - Deception Crack HS 4b **
Couldn't work out what the name referred to... deceptively easy? hard? climbed differently to expected? It seems alright at the grade, maybe towards the upper end, but nothing wild. And climbed with almost all bridging and very little crack climbing, but that seems about right from the view from the floor. Good fun.
with George FidczukKyloe Crag (Kyloe Out) - Gargarin's Groove HVS 5a **
After a looong stretch to get on, this was a nice climb! The majority was fairly steady, the HVS element really doesn't kick in until the top, as you'd probably expect from the floor. And then there were plenty of good jugs, and bridging feet, to get through the steep terrain. Cool route.
with George Fidczuk Kyloe Crag (Kyloe Out) - Flake Crack S 4b ***
Very pleasant start to the day. Lovely holds pretty much the whole way and plenty of gear too - including the first outing of the tri-cam! A choice of exits, both very simple.
with George Fidczuk Kyloe Crag (Kyloe Out) - Wilfred Prickles HVS 5a **
Really not sure what's so good about this route. You are lead away from the feature you think you'll be climbing, there are holds that take you pretty much into the right hand holds of Deception Crack, it's far too easy at the top to take the right hand side of the headwall and avoid the steep bit on the jugs. So it's either ambiguous or eliminate, as far as I could see! Holds were cool enough at least. A bit pumpy too, but nothing too crazy.
with George Fidczuk |
