It's hard to find good, safe trad climbs around Wellington, where there is an abundance of loose rock and climbs are often difficult or impossible to protect. This is a ticklist of routes that I would consider climbing on trad gear (some with bonus bolts interspersed) again without feeling the desperate compulsion to write my last will and testament beforehand. These are climbs that I would recommend to someone who wants to do some trad climbing around Welly but doesn't want long runouts above shit pro in shittier rock. Some are bolted, but with places to put trad gear (good for learning). DISCLAIMER- some of these are still really fiddly to protect, and in all cases the outcome of a fall is uncertain. There is a lot of subjectivity here too- different people will have different ideas of what's acceptable. I'll update the list as I climb more around here.
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User | Percentage | Latest Log | |
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1st | Hidden | 73% | 10 Mar |
2nd | cacheson | 47% | 12 Jan, 2022 |
Add | Climb name | Grade | Ticks? | Height | Crag name | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sewer Variant | 14 | 4 | 14m | Titahi Bay | ||||
Seagull Groove | 12 | 2 | 7m | Punk Rock | ||||
Farce | 17 | 1 | 10m | Punk Rock | ||||
Going to Fall | 17 | 1 | 10m | Punk Rock | ||||
Apathy | 14 | 1 | 10m | Punk Rock | ||||
Ian Ferguson Rocked My Boat | 11 | 4 | 9m | Pukerua Bay | ||||
Nazguls Riding Unicorns | 16 ** | 1 | 10m | Titahi Bay | ||||
Hobbit's Enigma | 17 | 3 | 12m | Titahi Bay | ||||
Dolphinius Alternative | 17 | 2 | ? | Pukerua Bay | ||||
Limpet Groove | 11 | 3 | 15m | Titahi Bay | ||||
Plimsoll | 13 * | 3 | 15m | Titahi Bay | ||||
Orange Slab | 6 | 6 | 12m | Titahi Bay | ||||
Sloth | 18 *** | 12 | 18m | Titahi Bay | ||||
Joie De Vivre | 19 ** | 5 | 23m | Titahi Bay | ||||
Mordor | 16 * | 2 | 45m | • 2 | Titahi Bay | |||
Diagonal Wall Direct | 14 | 2 | 28m | • 2 | Titahi Bay | |||
Diagonal Wall | 12 | 4 | 28m | • 2 | Titahi Bay | |||
Rasp | 16 | 5 | 24m | Titahi Bay | ||||
Jug Arete | 11 | 2 | 28m | Titahi Bay | ||||
9 stars | 63 | 318m | 22 |