UKC

Scotland's first ground up grade X mixed route

Alan Mullin and Steve Lynch have climbed what is arguably the hardest traditional mixed route in the world of modern Scottish mixed climbing.

The route climbs the summer version 'Crazy Sorrow' on Lochnagar. This E3 was first climbed in 1982 and had not been repeated until recently when it was thought to be E4. The route was climbed ground up style on the 2nd attempt, nine days after the very first attempt at climbing it.

All protection was placed on lead, with the crux consisting of a free hanging roof problem leading into steeply iced grooves and slabs. The technical difficuties included several dynos, a heel hook and the use of one arm pull ups. There was a high level of risk due to the possibilty of an horrendous landing onto a huge block just below the roof. Although the roof was protected by a solitary upside down peg, there was little scant protection in the iced groove above. Mullin and Lynch have graded the route X.11, the first of it's kind in Scotland.



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