"On August 4 we started up the south face of Great Trango, with just two small packs and food for 4 days. We had no sleeping bags, no mats, fix lines or radios. Just the essentials for climbing and determination to succeed." reports Dodo Kopold who with his partner Gabo ÄŒmÃ¡rik have just completed a 90 pitch route on the southeast face of Great Trango (20,460ft) in Pakistan. Experiencing rapidly deteriorating conditions the pair summited after eight days on the face and then faced a difficult descent which saw both climbers taking falls. The route is called Assalam Alaikum and is reported to be graded UIAA 8 A2.
Source: SHS JAMES, Slovak Mountaineering Union.