UKC

Hard Bouldering, Hard Grit

John Gaskins, Alpha Wad, has repeated Malcom Smith's Monk's Life Font 8b+ (V14) at Kyloe in the Woods. Simon Panton reports on ukbouldering.com that, "John had first tried it briefly eight years ago, but to no avail. This time he nailed it in two sessions." This was a ten year project for Malcom Smith according to Steve Crowe. Picture here of Malc Smith on Monk's Life.

In North Wales Gaskins sent the Pill Box Wall project off the Marine Dive by using some foot trickery to 'top out and drop off' this thin bulging wall which now goes at a sturdy V12/13 (Font 8b-ish). To record a graphic representation of the crucial beta in your engrams go here.

Gaskins also recently repeated Steve Dunnings Special Cases V12 and Ryan Pasquill's XXXX V10/11 on the Bowderstone in the Lakes. And as someone on the UKC.com forums has pointed out "Gaskins also climbed the long-standing slab project in Stanworth Quarry, Lancs, that Dawes was once interested in, at a hefty V13. It reputedly has sustained 7a/b moves, and has seen off some very able climbers in the past."

Route wise, Ben Bransby has climbed the roof left of Paralogism at the Sloth area at the Roaches. Ben said about his adventure, " I abbed down it twice, a week or so ago and kinda managed the moves although it was hard getting into them from ab. I went back with Adam Long and managed it in one go really quick so decided it would be worth giving it a lead. I lead it first go (I climbed out just past the gear and jumped off as I wanted to get an idea of how the fall would be from further out). It felt like it was probably E8 - it definately felt harder than other E7s I have done recently although I haven't done a head point for a few years.



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