UKC

Moon climbs new Font 8b at Burbage

Ben Moon has climbed the hanging prow of the Sphinx directly at Font 8b, which he has named 'Voyager'. The Sphinx is a classy John Allen problem, that used to get E5 6c, but is more like Font 7a+ above mats. The Sphinx traverses a breakline, whilst Voyager presumably pulls on its smeary footholds to reach the apex of the prow directly. Ben reports on his website that he had been waiting for good conditions, which arrived this week. He thinks the problem is easier than The Ace (also Font 8b) at Stanage, but that The Ace might get Font 8b+ elsewhere in the world. Burbage Valley is home to many of the UK's classic gritstone boulders, including West Side Story and Blind Date.


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