Kilian Fischhuber on Action Direct

The late Wolfgang Gullich was truly a visionary climber. Repeats of his route, Action Direct, the world's first 9a sport route, are still newsworthy 15 years after Gullich's first ascent and still have not reached double figures.

The latest victory was by the Austrian Kilian Fischhuber who in an interview at Freakclimbing.com about his ascent gave aspirant ascensionists the following beta when asked "Which skills are more important on Action Direct?" Answer: " Sticking pockets, being able to jump, power-endurance and mental strength!"

On the Action Direct podium so far are:

  • 1 Wolfgang Gullich (1991)
  • 2 Alexander Adler (1995)
  • 3 Iker Pou (2000)
  • 4 Dave Graham (2001)
  • 5 Christian Bindhammer (2003)
  • 6 Richard Simpson (13/10/2005)
  • 7 Dai Koyamada (15/10/2005)
  • 8 Markus Bock (22/10/2005)
  • 9 Kilian Fischhuber (26/09/2006)

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    Return to News from October 2006


    11 Oct, 2006
    Rich Simpson on Action Direct, "I believe the reason Action is still considered so hard is mostly due to the fact that, in this specific type of climbing, accompanied with years of hard work and preparation Wolfgang was substantially ahead of his time when climbing Action in 1990. So much so that climbers have only just begun to catch up and supersede Wolfgang's colossal effort. Yes, in many styles, and general climbing ability Wolfgang was seen as a lesser to the likes of Moon, Moffatt and JB Tribout. But in this incredibly specific style, pulling hard on one fingered pockets with bad feet and simple sequences, Wolfgang quite simply shone beyond belief, and whilst shining, he found a climb that was made for him and suited his somewhat freakish ability perfectly. Albeit with a colossal amount of training and effort, he succeeded in a climb that was arguably 10 years ahead of time. This theory, I believe was only recently proven when Action began to receive a significant amount of ascents from a variety of 'the pack' and in doing so was considered to be beneath the current cutting edge in difficulty. Action was climbed in 1990? And it wasn't until 2005 that it began to be a mere test piece rather than something right at the cutting edge. "http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6224.40.html
    11 Oct, 2006
    Having perused the article this morning on Freakclimbing - one thing that sticks out from Kilian Fischhuber's interview; 'It is funny, so many people ask about the sequence. In fact, there are many possible ways. I once read that Wolfgang's way is not repeated and may never be. I am sure that the original way is possible too but why make it harder? So Wolfgang leads even further because others such as Rich had to unlock the sequence in a different manner. Top bloke (even if he was in Cliffhanger!) and is missed.
    11 Oct, 2006
    From the Simpson interview on Freakclimbing: Yes my sequence was the most "direct", I am the only person to have climbed the Wolfgang's sequence, it now seems that people got to the right in the middle: it is more moves but easier. For me I wanted to climb it the Wolfgang's way in the middle, it was very powerful and direct and probably harder, but for me it's better, it has history.
    11 Oct, 2006
    Most 'direct' as in not the same as Wolfgangs? If there are other ways of completing the route then it's still good because it's now getting traffic!
    11 Oct, 2006
    sounds like there could be a new test-piece round the cornerhttp://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/frankenjura06/
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