"Dr Crimp (8b+) is a direct start to an old and rarely repeated 7c called Chris's Route, first climbed by Chris Sowden in 1994. I bolted the line two years ago and had one session on it. This year with rekindled enthusiasm and some spare time due to the cancellation of the Boulder World Cup in Belgrade Serbia, I spent four days on the line and finally got the link in very windy but excellent friction conditions."
There was an obvious start climbing the trad route Rictus, but as Gaz wanted to leave this route in its original state - without bolts - he opted to start to the right. Gaz then moved on to another project:
"I checked out a new link up that Andy Earl tried a couple of years ago. Starting up 'More Rhubarb Faster' then moving left along the break after the crux into Dalliance. Obvious holds lead left via a cool 'Rose' move to join finish up Grooved Arete (starting up Dalliance and using this finish is Ian Vickers' link La Connection from 1998 which is more like 8b today).
The next day found me in Blackpool at the BLCC where I took the title for the third year running and fourth overall!"
Gaz returned to the line and redpointed it a few days after the competition; a busy week for Gaz - who is obviously on exceptional form at the moment. Gaz has named the route Just For Fun 8b.
Thank you to Dave Simmonite for the use of the photo: www.climbmagazine.com
Other Kilnsey News:
Steve Mclure made probably the first repeat of A Quick Fixe thinking it hard 8a+ and Jordan Buys, fresh from his adventures on the BMC International Meet, did Massala Martyr 8a+.
Trango Tower - Pakistan:
Gaz has a date with several international bouldering competitions, including the British Bouldering Championships at www.cliff-hanger.co.uk, then he is up-scaling slightly:
"I am off to Trango in Pakistan on the 26th August to attempt to free climb the classic 31 pitch Eternal Flame route on The Nameless Tower with Jerry Gore and a Euro team - most of whom I met in Madagascar in 2006."
Gaz is sponsored by: The North Face, Five Ten, DMM, EP Climbing Walls and Boulder UK.
Trango 08: 'The Free Dream' is supported by:
If you are interested in supporting the Trango Expedition - please contact Gaz through his websites.