Writes the USA climber Ethan Pringle after completing the third ascent of Canada's Cobra Crack (www.ethanpringle.com):
Cobra Crack first climbed free by Sonnie Trotter two years ago is a perfect finger crack, 30 metres long and situated on the overhanging headwall of the Cirque of the Uncrackables, Squamish Chief. Trotter gave it solid 5.14, around French 8c, and this was confirmed by the Belgium climber Nicolas Favresse who made the second ascent in July this year. (UKC news report)
Trotter describes Cobra Crack as having,
".......huge dynamic throws between one- and two-finger locks; pain is ever-present, and the mental crux is overlooking the pain move after move. The redpoint crux comes over the lip on a slippery side pull; the feet are next to nothing, and it takes momentum and a huge throw to latch the final edge, at which point you're about 15 to 20 feet about your last piece of gear—it's really exciting.”
Ethan Pringle is having a fabulous year climbing. He recently repeated another Canadian testpiece, Sonnie Trotter's The Path 5.14 R (UKC news report) and is making good progress on Chris Sharma's Dream Catcher (5.14d/9a) also at Squamish, which he has been working in tandem with Cobra Crack.