About a month ago, he repeated Livin' Astro, 8c+, at Rumney, and a few days ago, he did Double down, an 8B problem at Great Barrington. Before this, I had never heard of this 18-year-old, so who is he? I asked him.
"I would describe myself as a skinny New Englander that no one has ever heard of. Hahaha"
Well... not anymore son.
"I enjoy sport climbing and bouldering equally and I think I'm just about dead even in terms of strength in both fields. I was also very close to the problem Roses and Blue Jays (8B) which is on the same boulder, but was unable to top that problem out the day I did Double down because it was snowing. Sadly, that could mean an end to climbing at Great Barrington this season. Double Down is a short very straight forward problem. The first move involves a very big lock off/bump move to a bad three finger pocket. You then bring your left hand into a very bad mono crimp thing. After moving your feet around you lunge for a good, but flat slot and jump to the jug lip. One of the hardest part of this problem is keeping your feet on because it is very steep. I spent two days on this problem.
My next bouldering project is at Lincoln Woods in Rhode Island. I don't think the full problem has an official name but most people just call it the Super Project but the stand start is called Devine Providence but there is still an obvious sit start that is yet to be done. I did the first ascent of the low start last year, starting from one move in and thought was about hard 8A+. No one has ever done the first move but I have come very close. That single move is at least 8A, so the full problem should check in around 8B/B+ if it goes."
"I would describe myself as a skinny New Englander that no one has ever heard of. Hahaha"
Well... not anymore son.
"I enjoy sport climbing and bouldering equally and I think I'm just about dead even in terms of strength in both fields. I was also very close to the problem Roses and Blue Jays (8B) which is on the same boulder, but was unable to top that problem out the day I did Double down because it was snowing. Sadly, that could mean an end to climbing at Great Barrington this season. Double Down is a short very straight forward problem. The first move involves a very big lock off/bump move to a bad three finger pocket. You then bring your left hand into a very bad mono crimp thing. After moving your feet around you lunge for a good, but flat slot and jump to the jug lip. One of the hardest part of this problem is keeping your feet on because it is very steep. I spent two days on this problem.My next bouldering project is at Lincoln Woods in Rhode Island. I don't think the full problem has an official name but most people just call it the Super Project but the stand start is called Devine Providence but there is still an obvious sit start that is yet to be done. I did the first ascent of the low start last year, starting from one move in and thought was about hard 8A+. No one has ever done the first move but I have come very close. That single move is at least 8A, so the full problem should check in around 8B/B+ if it goes."
Comments