8b/+, E9/10 by Beat Kammerlander

Living legend, Beat Kammerlander, 50, has made the first bolt free ascent of the 40 meter vertical Prinzip Hoffnung, 8b/+, on the Bürser Platte at Vorarlberg, Austria, where the rock has been described as having "the texture of ingrain wallpaper". On the crux, you risk a fall of some 15 meters onto a piece that holds an estimated 150-300kgs, hence the E9/10.
"During my successful climb when I reached the crux I had the feeling as if I was constantly falling, I was so surprised that I still stuck to the rock, like a drop dangling under a ceiling. I felt that I was falling but I kept going for it. The primal will that I felt in this situation, coming from deep down in my stomach, is what I remember and what carried me through. When I climb such a route I don't feel like I am 50 years old."

Photo by Peter Mathis

This has been read 1,119 times
Return to News from March 2009