UKC

Ben Litster Repeats RequiemPhotos

© Ben Lister Collection
Ben Litster - Requiem  © Ben Lister Collection
Ben Litster - Requiem
© Ben Lister Collection
Scottish climber Ben Litster has repeated the classic crack climb Requiem at Dumbarton.

Requiem is the tough (E7/8 - around F8a+) crack first climbed by Scottish legend Dave Cuthbertson back in 1983.

More recently Requiem has been better known as the start to the super hard extension, Rhapsody.

Ben commented: "I'm pretty pleased, now I'm going to start really trying Dave's E9 to the left."

UPDATE:

More info for those who wanted to know:

Ben commented:

"I did it placing the gear on lead (minus 2 stuck nuts which just I fell on and now are pretty stuck!). I didn't clip the old preplaced wires at the top because I felt I couldn't stop to place them on lead so felt I couldn't clip them as I went up, which meant it was a bit more scary but still safe!

Not sure which ascent it was but the route has so much history it was a great experience!"

Ben Litster - Requiem, Dumbarton  © Ben Lister Collection
Ben Litster - Requiem, Dumbarton
© Ben Lister Collection
Ben Litster - Bomber gear on Requiem, Dumbarton  © Ben Lister Collection
Ben Litster - Bomber gear on Requiem, Dumbarton
© Ben Lister Collection

Ben Litster is sponsored by Metolius and Evolv


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16 Jun, 2009
Good effort, one of the best lines around.
16 Jun, 2009
Get on Rhapsody Mate!! Nice one!!
16 Jun, 2009
Sounds like he's more focused on Achemine, which is great news. Repeats and grade consensus for MacLeod's big 3 E9s are long overdue.
16 Jun, 2009
Nice work Ben....good to see you getting into some trad, and no jamming must make it at least E9! Some good thoughts on your blog too.
16 Jun, 2009
Have you got a link? Excellent effort, Requiem really has to be one of most impressive looking lines in the UK. No notes in the report on style - pre placed gear or not? Photos seem to suggest not.
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