Lakes Bouldering - St. Bees Head Action

Greg Chapman on Iron Hide sit-start, Font 8A, at St. Bees Head. © Lakesbloc, 204 kb
Greg Chapman on Iron Hide sit-start, Font 8A, at St. Bees Head. © Lakesbloc
© Individual Photographers

The picturesque sea-side sand-stone spot of St. Bees (say that with a mouthful of oatcakes) has seen some recent significant bouldering action.

Earlier last year Tom Peckitt had added several hard problems to the crag including Lost Buoyz (Font 7C) and Bad Buoyz (Font 7B). In December Dan Varian visited the crag and made a quick repeat of Lost Buoyz but only after he had added his own problem; the sit-start to Clash of the Titans.

The original Clash of the Titans (stand start) is graded Font 7A+. Dan took a few sessions to tick the sit-start. The grade is approximately Font 8A+.

More grade info from

"Dan feels the conditions dependent nature of the climb could effect the difficulty a great deal, and as such the grade of 8a+/V12 is offered with the cautionary note that the line could feel as much as a grade harder or easier depending on the weather and sea conditions."

Greg Chapman has also been active at St. Bees, this time at St. Bees South, an area that up until now hasn't been well documented.


"Greg first visited the area around 8 years ago and climbed a handful of problems between then and now, none of which he publicly recorded, with this being the traditional nature/style of these coastal crags. However, with the recent, more modern approach to documenting the highly popular northern head, he thought it was about time the southern head received similar exposure - if only to spread the load."

Of the climbs sent in recent months, the most notable and best are; The Kraken (Font 7A+), Killer Bee (Font 7C), Supposition Test (Font 7C), Dead Calm (Font 7B), Master at Arms (Font 7B+), Kill Switch (Font 7A+), Liberty's End (Font 7A+), Iron Hide (Font 8A) and Davy Jones Locker (Font 7B+).  Greg climbed all these lines, bar the last problem, which was climbed by Tom Newberry.

These lines my well have been climbed before, however this is the first time they have been officially documented. There is more info on

Other Lakes bouldering news from

Up Eskdale, in the western Lakes, Tom Peckitt has produced another quality addition, this time to the Eskdale granite circuit. His new line, Where The Wild Things Are, climbs the wall come arête project, at the Wilderness area - problem 7, on page 185, of Rockfax's Lakes Bouldering guide.

Photos: Tom Peckitt at St. Bees

Tom Peckitt on Bad Buoyz Font 7B © Peckitt Collection, 105 kb
Tom Peckitt on Bad Buoyz Font 7B © Peckitt Collection
© Individual Photographers
David Gater on Beano Font 7A © Peckitt Collection, 134 kb
David Gater on Beano Font 7A © Peckitt Collection
© Individual Photographers

Greg Chapman having fun in Germany © Jack Geldard, 138 kb
Greg Chapman having fun in Germany © Jack Geldard
© Individual Photographers
Tom Peckitt is sponsored by Evolv, prAna and Metolius

Dan Varian is sponsored by Bigstone, the UK importer for Five Ten and Arc'teryx. He also co-runs Beastmaker, the finger board company.

Greg Chapman runs the website Lakesbloc and works at Rock and Run

Thanks to Greg Chapman for help with this report.

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