UKC

8C FA by Midtboe

© Magnus Midtboe

Last month, Magnus Midtboe repeated Dani Andrada's Ali-Hulk sit start extension, and joined the select group of climbers who've climbed 9b.

Now, he has joined an even more exclusive group of climbers who've climbed both 9b route and 8C boulder. In fact, come to think of it, I believe it's not even a group really, but a pair. Chris Sharma and Magnus.

Blood redemption:

Last try, last minute today I did the hardest problem of my life, together with and captured by Made Production. I have been working on this problem every time I've been in Bergen the last few years. I did Gjeddehenget before it broke, when it was 8B/8B+, though that wasn't the very sit start. Today at the very last minute I did the hardest problem of my life. Two and a half hours before my flight back to Oslo i made it! The sit start adds four moves to the boulder and makes it into a totally different boulder - Four of the hardest and definitely most amazing moves I have ever done!

I propose 8C for this boulder, even though I have never done an established 8B+ before. This suits me better than any other Boulder. Mostly because of its length - 24 moves. The length also makes it less specific - it's not all about one or two moves.

More info and photos on Magnus' Website

Magnus is the one to the right  © Magnus Midtboe
Magnus is the one to the right
© Magnus Midtboe

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30 Sep, 2010
Unsure why he has graded it 8C when he says himself he's never climbed an established 8B+. Either way, good cranking, can't wait to hear what he does next. Will be interesting to see if the grade sticks after a few repeats.
30 Sep, 2010
presumable because it's an awful lot harder than the 8B's he's done. Interesting to see if the same people can do the very short and very hard 8C boulder problems (like the Paul Robinson one), AND also do the long 8C's, like this one. Seems to be two very different disciplines
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