Brits in Rocklands - Hard Ascents and New 8B+/C

© Nick Brown - Outcrop Films

Micky Page Repeats 2 x 8B+ and adds a new 8B+/C:

A strong team of Brits headed out to Rocklands in the Cederberg Mountains of South Africa this summer. Whilst the temperatures for July were a record high for the past ten years, psyche prevailed and the team dragged themselves up a few boulders.

Scott Noy, Rocklands guidebook author and local climber, commented:

"Yes, this season in Rocklands was bad ass - so many strong climbers doing hard lines! The RockStock climbing festival was a blast too!"

A video still of Micky Page on the third ascent of Golden Shadow 8b+  © Nick Brown - Outcrop Films
A video still of Micky Page on the third ascent of Golden Shadow 8b+
© Nick Brown - Outcrop Films

Micky Page had a very successful two months, managing the third ascent of the Fred Nicole problem 'Golden Shadow' 8b+. He also climbed 'Black Eagle' 8b+, the third ascent of the boulder and first ascent since a hold broke after Paul Robinsons' ascent last year. It's worth noting that Fred put up these problems almost 10 years ago and they've survived many sieges from climbers over the years, unlike many of the new boulders of similar difficulty.

Looking for something different, Micky tracked down a project which had been tried a few times by others. After a bit of a battle and an extension to his plane flight he made the first ascent of 'King of Limbs', likely to be in the 8b+/8c region - although the grade matters little next to the climbing and the ascent.

Micky Page on the first ascent of King of Limbs 8b+ or 8c  © Nick Brown - Outcrop Films
Micky Page on the first ascent of King of Limbs 8b+ or 8c
© Nick Brown - Outcrop Films

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk attemping the sharp Barracuda 8a  © Nick Brown - Outcrop Films
Mina Leslie-Wujastyk attemping the sharp Barracuda 8a
© Nick Brown - Outcrop Films
Commenting on his new problem, Micky said:

"King of Limbs was an old project not far from the classic Leopard Cave. Following an obvious roof line, a good starting crimp rail leads to 3 hard moves at full extension then easier climbing above. It took me a while to build the specific strength needed at the crux and it was a battle to finish it.. Definitely a classic and one of the most challenging problems I've done."

David Mason was also on fire throughout the two months, quickly ticking his way through the classics of the area. His ticklist included a copious amount of 8a+'s including the classics 'Black Shadow' and 'Shoshaloza', along with a few 8a and 7c+ flashes.

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk showed the sexist Scandinavians her skills by ticking 'Nutsa', Fred Nicole's brilliant 8a, as well as problems like 'Black Mango Chutney' 7c+ and the steep roof 'No Late Tenders' 7c+.

Sam and Lucinda Whittaker had a successful trip, with Sam adopting his 'Smash on, smash through' technique to drag himself up 'Black Shadow' 8a+ (as did Richard Sharpe). Lucinda quickly equalled her previous best with a quick ascent of 'Caroline', a superb 7c+.

There were many other ascents by the large group, who came to the conclusion at the end of the trip that Rocklands is definitely world class.

Sam Whittaker on one of the many roofs of South Africa  © Nick Brown - Outcrop Films
Sam Whittaker on one of the many roofs of South Africa
© Nick Brown - Outcrop Films

VIDEO: Brits in Rocklands 2011 - 'Tomorrow I Will Be Gone' Trailer

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23 Sep, 2011
So great to see Micky getting the recognition he deserves! From what I'm led to believe though, it's his choice to keep everything low key. Is there any final ticklist of his? I could imagine it would make EPIC reading.
23 Sep, 2011
Anyone coming from the North East knows Micky Page is an absolute legend! He is a lovely lad who is not only on outstanding climber but will help anyone to improve if they ask his advice(thats probably coz they will never be as good as him). He has no need for recognition of any sort from the climbing community but has a thirst and passion for climbing like no other. Awesome effort mate well done!
23 Sep, 2011
Hi Cliff. I hope you didn't take my previous post the wrong way. I too am from the North East, albeit it Scotland, but the county is like my home away from home. I love the climbing and I love the people. I think the way Micky conducts himself is brilliant! And anyone I've spoken to/climbed with in the county who knows him have all said the same as you, about what a lovely guy he is, as well as being immensely humble, talented and helpful. I was just trying to say that it's nice to here what he's upto, as he is someone at the very top of our sport and pushing standards, but is under most peoples radar's. I understand that he doesn't need, nor want any recognition for what he has achieved, which I think is greatly admiriable, especially in a sport where media hype and coverage are playing an ever increasing role. I just think it's a shame that your average climber will have no idea who he is/what he has achieved, although he is as good/if not better than most of the people at the forefront of the sport. However, I don't think increased media presence in climbing/bouldering is bad thing, in fact in my humble opinion, I think its great. I know many people who have either gotten into climbing, or became far more interested/keen to progress themselves having seen films of the top climbers like Micky, as this has open there eyes to what is possible within our sport. And to further agree with you, Micky is an absolute Legend! Cheers, Kris.
23 Sep, 2011
Hey Kris Didnt take it the wrong way at all and in fact was 'trying' to support what you were saying in your first post :-). There are only a few like Micky who have his attitude I just hope he can afford to do what he loves to do for a long time to come. I too would like to see his tick list....I may ask him next time I see him....However, I'm sure my eyes would glaze over as they will be way beyond anything I would be able to climb :-( lol. Enjoy the County Kris....but keep it quiet ;-) lol
23 Sep, 2011
Phew, glad to have cleared that up lol. I will do Cliff ;) Cheers, Take it easy. Kris.
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