Austrian, Guntram Jörg, or simply "GU" to his friends, one of those super psyched and extremely productive boulderers who have been operating just under the radar, has made the 5th ascent of Bernd Zangerl's very short (~4 moves) Anam cara, ~8C, at Silvretta, Austria. After five ascents, by Zangerl, Schwaiger, Obleitner, Woods and Jörg, the grade seems to be weighing in around low end 8C.
Finally I managed my dream of climbing Anam cara!!!! Thanks to my family supporting me, thanks to my friends especially Rudi standing behind me while my send, my Physio Klaus Isele, and the most important person my love Martina Scheichl.
GU had tried Anam Cara before but not been able to link it: I could do the moves last year but my mind wasn't ready. Now it feels like I have taken a new step and that harder stuff is also possible :)
Hanging out with his new friend Daniel Woods has also opened his eyes even more as to what is possible.
At first Daniel is the strongest climber I have ever seen. Climbing with him was inspiring but at the same time it took my mood down that I can't reach that.
But after I got to know him better it's just motivation and we can push each other.
And of couse it's possible it's so much just in the mind
So what's next? Memento, ~8B+, also at Silvretta, perhaps?We will see! I will go up for sure and try. Daniel is pushing for going to Magic wood, there would be a lot left... Then, for sure, Ticino in the winter and we will go to Valle Bavona to make new amazing boulders, I have so many really hard projects left there. And that's all we had time for. GU is off to Magic wood with Daniel and Courtney. Hadi (Dominik Hadwiger will come along too and catch the action on camera. Dai Koyamada is already there, so who knows what will go down today?
Better photos and video to come, but until then, here's a video from Kornelius Obleitner's ascent in 2009.