Adder crack, 5.13 R FA by Hazel Findlay

© Hazel Findley coll.
Adder Crack, 5.13 R, Longhouse, Squamish  © Hazel Findley coll.
Adder Crack, 5.13 R, Longhouse, Squamish
© Hazel Findley coll.

Hazel Findlay, currently in Squamish on her way to Yosemite, has made the first ascent of Adder Crack, 5.13 R (~8a+) at Longhouse, Squamish, Canada.

You can read all about it on her blog, but here is the short version.

The thin crack, or seam really, was cleaned by Joshua Lavigne, who thought that it would be a 5.12 finger splitter. As it turned out, the crack was thinner than expected and even small fingers didn't fit, so he pulled his rope and handed the project over to Hazel.

Hazel describes the route as a five meter thin intro crux, which she solved by "...using laybacking and imaginary finger locks.">/i>, followed by an easier section and then a second crux leading to a 5.11ish finish.

To protect the start she had to apply British tactics, i.e. using two ropes and placing gear off route, as the moves were too hard to place the fiddly gear on lead.

About the name, Hazel says she "...thought the Adder Crack was good, because it's like a less cool, less bad-ass, thinner, slightly venomous, more British version of the Cobra Crack."

Hazel Findlay is sponsored by: The North Face, La Sportiva, , Sterling Rope and Black Diamond

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Hazel Findlay has been climbing for 25 of her 31 years, and started out trad climbing on the limestone sea cliffs of Pembrokeshire. She dabbled in competition climbing - she was the British junior champion six...

Hazel's Athlete Page 56 posts 6 videos

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30 Sep, 2012
I thought she was from Bristol?
30 Sep, 2012
Great name, adder crack!
30 Sep, 2012
She was mostly raised in Warrington. Bristol for university, and possibly still based there. "Lake District's finest" might mean she was born there. Not sure.
30 Sep, 2012
Great stuff, cool route name! Your html tags have gone a little wonky.
30 Sep, 2012
Are you sure that "Lake District's finest" isn't her climbing partner "Pete". Hazel was little more than a baby when I knew the family and her mother was a Deputy Head of a school near Yarm in North Yorkshire and I think they had moved up there from Bristol. I recall that somewhere near Mold was their next location. It seems quite a few places can stake a claim!
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