UKC

Southern smoke, 8c+, by Ashima Shirashi

© Deadpoint magazine
Ashima Shiraishi on Southern smoke, 8c+, Bob Marley, Red River Gorge  © Deadpoint magazine
Ashima Shiraishi on Southern smoke, 8c+, Bob Marley, Red River Gorge
© Deadpoint magazine

11 year old, Ashima Shirashi just keeps taking giant steps. Now she has repeated Joe Kinder's Southern smoke, 8c+, at the Bob marley crag, Red River Gorge.

After a 3rd go 8b/+ the first day and an 8b+ flash the second, it took a few days for the next ground breaking ascent. Ashima was working on Lucifer, 8c+, for a bit before deciding to go for Southern smoke instead.

The route adds a direct start into the crux of Ultra-perm, 8b, a few meters right of another 8c+, 50 words for pump, and Joe describes it as:

...simple and purely stamina/resistance. There is one shake spot on some getto holds after you have climbed something in the 13d/14a [8b/+] range. After this the real crux comes that surely checks in around 13c/d [8a+/b] to the top.

Ashima is the youngest person ever to climb 8c+. Yes, younger even than Adam Ondra, who was 12 when he did Alien carnage at Castillon.

Deadpoint magazine has the full story and several more photos.


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27 Oct, 2012
Holey moley!!
27 Oct, 2012
What are getto holds?
28 Oct, 2012
As illustrated like the sport of gymnastics in the future one pitch sport climbs will be dominated by light juveniles . Sorry guys and old ladies but you may have to revert back to multi pitch trad routes to impress.
28 Oct, 2012
Hmm, I'd reserve judgement on that front you know. The first female 9as were climbed a decade ago by a Josune in her 30s (and nobody has bettered that since) and Ondra isn't a juvenile any longer. I'd be willing to bet that in 10 years time Sasha, Ondra, Ashima, (and many other young names) will all be climbing harder than they do today and the new crop of preteens to midteens will be a grade or half grade behind them. There are a lot of sports you could choose to compare climbing to and gymnastics is one of the few where young children reliably outperform adults... Infact, it seems child gymnasts are not necessarily so awesome, check the olympic statistics on age of medalists:http://www.guardian.co.uk/sport/datablog/2012/aug/10/olympics-2012-list-medal-winners#age
28 Oct, 2012
The strength elements are dominated by the males, so much so the events are different. This will have a knock-on effect to top end power. This young girl is scarily good though!
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