UKC

Female Ascent of M14 Mixed Route for Lucie Hrozova

© Lucie Hrozova collection
Female Czech climber, Lucie Hrozova, has made an early repeat (possibly the third ascent?), of Robert Jasper's test-piece Iron Man (M14) at Eptingen in Switzerland.

photo
Lucie Hrozova on Spiderman M13
© Lucie Hrozova collection

This is the hardest mixed route climbed by a woman.

Robert Jasper told us about the crag:

"The Eptingen waterfall area is an ice, mixed and drytooling area with no summer sport climbing routes because of the wetness of the rock and its bad quality. For over 20 years it has been used only for ice/mixed climbing just like the famous Ueschenen in Kandersteg (CH) or Vail in Colorado, Ouray (USA) etc."

Check out this video of Robert Jasper on the first ascent:


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19 Feb, 2013
Is it actually a "mixed" route or rather a pure drytool route? I remember in the vid Jasper does it when the waterfall is very much water, but I don't know if it gets ice on it in normal winter conditions?
19 Feb, 2013
It's dry. I think it was flashed by Charly Fritzer.
19 Feb, 2013
Don't know if it really matters, but it seems that mixed routes with big ice sections need a different skill sets to totally dry routes, where just being unbelievably strong is the main thing! If you can climb 8b, hanging on tools on WI6 might not feel too hard but I suppose it still feels really scary!
19 Feb, 2013
I heard on the grapevine that Heeyong Park (Korean beast) nearly got the onsight a few weeks back but had to settle for the tick second go...
19 Feb, 2013
Well, the description on the Vid page states M/D14... so I'm gonna say drytooling. Not that it would prolly be difficult if the water were to freeze. After all, the protection is solely bolts, so wether you're climbing ice or crumbly rock doesn't really matter that much.
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