UKC

Gardoms Grit Project Falls to Will Atkinson at E8

© Will Atkinson
Will Atkinson on the first ascent of Hired Goons - E8 6c  © Will Atkinson
Will Atkinson on the first ascent of Hired Goons - E8 6c
© Will Atkinson
Will Atkinson has made the first ascent of the direct finish to Charlotte Rampling on the gritstone outcrop of Gardoms in the Peak District, naming his new route Hired Goons.

He has estimated a grade of E8 6c for this short but unprotected route that features a long dyno / slap as the finishing move. The original route Charlotte Rampling is a classic E6 first climbed by Johnny Dawes.

Will told UKC:

"I'm absolutely made up to have got the first ascent of such a great route. Hired Goons is the long awaited direct finish to the 1984 Johnny Dawes Classic, Charlotte Rampling, at Gardoms. The direct finish has been a well known project for some time, although it has been top roped clean by two or three climbers in the past it has never been soloed.

It shares the same start as Charlotte Rampling, but where that breaks left towards the arete Hired Goons climbs straight up via a hard move into an undercut, this is followed by a rather serious last move dyno to a hidden pocket just over the lip. Even with pads a fall from the last hard moves would be quite nasty......

I climbed it above 3 pads after practicing it on a rope. I was alone when I climbed it and the conditions weren't great but it all worked out just fine. I've given it a grade of E8 6c, there is no gear, and even with pads it feels a little bit too high to be a boulder problem."


Will Atkinson would like to thank Five Ten and Big Stone for their support.


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1 May, 2013
cool
1 May, 2013
Props to Will on the ascent and video. <tangent> Strange reportage by UKC stating that "Will told UKC" suggesting you put some effort in to interview him. In reality though all you've done is copy and paste the text Will posted to accompany his video (which was posted three days prior to the news item). Perhaps a more honest/straight-forward way of phrasing it would be "Will wrote of the ascent..."</tangent>
1 May, 2013
Good effort. "I've given it a grade of E8 6c, there is no gear, and even with pads it feels a little bit too high to be a boulder problem." If that makes sense to anyone please explain, or is this that no man's land of soloing with bouldering mats beneath us..?
1 May, 2013
I think that's the point - he's basically saying "if you protect it with mats then the difficulty of the crux plus the potential for hurting yourself if you fluff it make it feel about E8 6c." For my part I can't see how it's even possible to grade something like this for the onsight - I can't imagine anyone ever just trying the top dyno on the off chance that there might be a hidden hold exactly where their hand lands... Good effort, in any case!
1 May, 2013
Bingo. The mats may help but it's not 'bouldering'. jk
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