UKC

Hard New Boulders and Repeats for Tom Newberry

© Tom Newberry Collection
Tom Newberry on his new problem Pipeline (8A+)  © Tom Newberry Collection
Tom Newberry on his new problem Pipeline (8A+)
© Tom Newberry Collection
South West based teacher, Tom Newberry, has recently been developing some hard new problems in the South West, following them up with hard repeats further North.

Tom Newberry has been busy developing new boulders on the Exmoor Coast, recently. Of most significance is the completion of a 'well-known' (amongst those in the know) project at Silery/Foreland Point, Tom's new problem known as Pipeline goes at 8A+ and was finally sent on 29th March 2013 after a prolonged effort from the South West based climber.

Tom described Pipeline, reckoning it to be one of the hardest in the South West in a report on javu.co.uk as;

"A perfect 6m highball wall overhanging about 5 degrees with few holds and zero friction. It took a winter of work to suss out a sequence for the crux which is near the top. The problem goes straight up the middle with a left hand on the low arête and right in a slot, which can be a sit-start or stretch-start dependant on beach height. Success comes from linking huge throws between bad holds to top out on a ledge where the rock changes colour."

In addition to this Tom also put up other hard boulders in the area with; Womping (7C+), Barden (7C+), Face Plant (7C), Cake Vs Pie (7B+), Retrogaming (7A+), Daft Spunk (7A), and The Groove SDS (7A) being the cream of the crop.  

About Womping Tom added;

"On the slopey traverse block I added Womping,7C+, an extension to the 7B traverse described in the free Lynmouth topo, this is a slick, slopey, pumpfest with a hard crux turning the corner. Training on Beastmaker 45s will help!"

Obviously on a run of good form, Tom then headed North, stopping off at the Gower to make the 3rd ascent of Zulu Wall, 8A, claiming it to be "totally amazing". Continuing up to the Peak, Tom then made a quick ascent of Serenity, 8B at Roche Abbey in a couple of sessions.


Tom is sponsored by Evolv, Metolius, prAna


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10 May, 2013
Not sure the Exmoor Coast is in COrnwall
10 May, 2013
FFS Only on UKC..!!!? I am presuming this 'news' was badly cribbed off www.javu.co.uk.. If you would like to read something more informative and correct then visit javu's news section. There you will find a lovely round up of recent bouldering activity in the SW without having to work out why Exmoor's moved counties. Exmoor is a long long way from North Cornwall..
10 May, 2013
Thanks for highlighting the error, now corrected. Best, Dunc.
10 May, 2013
Not really an appropriate way to highlight ones gratitude at UKC for pushing some more covering of things going on down south now is it? It's good to see Duncan on the UKC team and applying his connections with down here in a positive manner! Keep it up, there are more than just Newberry down here who are producing news-worthy first ascents and repeats.
10 May, 2013
OK. Hopefully, you can understand that having the words 'Exmoor, Cornwall' in the news item was a tad annoying. The equivalent of saying something like 'Peak District, Northumberland'. Unfortunately there have been plenty of similar gaffs in news items here. Perhaps I may have been overly critical. Apologies for that. The glaring mistake has been corrected, there is a link to the news item on javu and balance has been restored to the universe. Thanks Duncan, gratitude for correcting it promptly. 'Pipeline' really is a fantastic problem, tried by many in the area and it took Tom to crack it. A brilliant effort, given tidal access and remoteness of the area.
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