UKC

Bernd Zangerl talks about Shantaram

© Bernd Zangerl (video still)

Last week we reported about Bernd Zangerl's first ascent of Shantaram, which he calls his biggest project ever.
Details were sketchy, so I decided to find out more about this stunning problem.

What better place to go than the source? I asked Bernd if he could tell us something about this problem that could very well be among the most difficult on the planet:

Hi Björn, everything is fine...although I have a little break because of a stupid accident. In February I will climb again :-) I am just working on an English story for Shantaram, but the boulder is in area outside Trondheim [Norway, roughly 15km south west of Flatanger] kommune of Osen! (Vingsand).

A friend of mine showed me the line in 2011. It's an incredible problem on a really huge (three-storey building size) boulder :-).
Whatever it will be in future
[in terms of grade], Shantaram is one of the most beautiful boulder problems in the world.

At first I wasn't so motivated, because it's so long and I couldn't even imagine linking so many hard moves without a rest. I decoded the sequence and found a good solution for the crux (undercling move with right hand after the start...when you watch the video).

2012 I went back to Osen and tried it for 6 weeks, until my elbow was inflamed and I had to go home again...

2013...the same game, but after 5 weeks (10 days on the problem ) I was able to climb Shantaram.

What lead to success?? I guess the line!
After nearly 15 years of bouldering, this boulder was something different...also for body and mind! I see it as gift - to decode such a piece of rock and going for the first ascent.
This boulder took everything I got and everything I had learned in the past....and my concentration - never think about the continuing falling at the end - was really good and I gave everything I had.

Bernd has chosen not to give Shantaram a grade just yet, but considering his CV and how long he had to work this one, I would be surprised if it turns out to be anything less than 8C.

It is my hardest problem for sure - I can't compare it with anything I did in the past. Regardless of the number which will be related to "Shantaram" in the future, the first ascent on June 11, 2013 as well as the journey to accomplish it are among the most intense of my climbing life...my highlight!

Bernd Zangerl is sponsored by: Red Bull, Petzl, adidas, Adidas Eyewear, Entre-Prises, Five Ten, Galtür, Peter Bouldering, Rock Technologies and Silvapark


This post has been read 12,067 times

Return to Latest News

Support UKC

As climbers we strive to make UKClimbing.com the kind of website we would love to visit, with the most up-to-date news, diverse and interesting articles, comprehensive gear reviews, breathtaking photographs and a vast and useful logbook system. As a result, an incredible community has formed around the site - we’ve provided the framework but it’s you who make the website what it is today. If you appreciate the content we offer then you can help us by becoming an official UKC Supporter. This can be a one-off single annual payment or a more substantial payment paid monthly or yearly which includes full access to Rockfax Digital and discounts on Rockfax print publications.

If you appreciate UKClimbing.com then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter.

UKC Supporter

  • Support the website we all know and love
  • Access to a year's subscription to Rockfax Digital.
  • Plus 30% off Rockfax guidebooks
  • Plus Show your support UKC Supporter badge on your profile and forum posts
UKC/UKH/Rockfax logo

14 Jan, 2014
Be interesting to see if Ondra jumps no this as he seems to spend quite a bit of time in Norway.
14 Jan, 2014
Hope its not named after the awful book....
14 Jan, 2014
Thought the book was absolutley fantastic! One of my faveourites of all time in fact...
Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email LinkedIn Pinterest