New release from Petr PavlicekChange

© Petr Pavlícek

I just had the pleasure of watching CHANGE the latest release from Petr Pavlicek who made The Wizard's Apprentice. Change is a documentary about Adam Ondra, Norway and a line in the Hanshelleren cave at Flatanger that was to become Change, the first 9b+ in the world.

This is not a review really, but if you ask me, if you would only buy one climbing related video this year, then this is it.

Saying that, you will be disappointed if you expect an orgy of names and numbers. There's plenty of hard climbing for sure, but most and foremost, this is about climbing as a way of life, what you have to give to do what Adam does, and what you can get back in the end... if you're lucky.

Even I, who climb indoors 99% of the time, got inspired to get out and project stuff! If the weather were better that is.

Here is where you can download your copy.

I realize it's not actually possible to get the video just yet, so in the meantime, until 26 October, here is something that didn't make the cut. Adam onsighting a couple of ~8c+'s. Nothing out of the ordinary really...

Adam Ondra is sponsored by: Beal, Black Diamond, Entre-Prises, Hudy Sports, La Sportiva and Montura

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26 Oct, 2014
Just finished watching it. On the whole I was a little disappointed but perhaps due to having built the movie up somewhat. It was due to be released a week ago and I've been waiting excitedly since then. The focus is split between climbing (Change as well as a couple of onsights and boulders), the psychology of climbing hard routes and Adam's psyche and finally on Norway as an area of outstanding natural beauty. To a certain extent I felt the natural beauty was overplayed and the whole movie felt as though it could have been developed by either the Norwegian tourism industry or those at Flatanger who would benefit from increased climbing tourism. That's not to say the area isn't incredible, just that what felt like the hard sell got tiring quickly. Personally I really enjoyed The Wizard of Cz as I felt it gave me a great insight into Adam's mentality, how he deals with the frustrations involved in hard climbing and so on. At the end of Change I don't particularly think I've picked up anything further but I guess sequels are always a little like that. There was also much more exciting climbing in Cz. Much of the climbing sequences are available online already (the lower crux of Change) although additional footage is included in the movie, in particular some focus on the second pitch/crux of Change as well as a few warm-ups/hard onsight attempts on the drive north to Flatanger. There's nothing more on Move 9b/+ or any discussion of harder routes for the future (beyond a brief confirmation that Adam is planning to return and hard projects do exist, which I believe was generally understood already). In summary I'd say this is worth watching if you're a big Adam Ondra or nature fan, but if you're looking for a movie jam packed with climbing, climbing, climbing... you might want to spend your €16 elsewhere.
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