UKC

UPDATED: The Story of two worlds, ~8C, by Samuel Ometz

Samuel Ometz on The Dagger (second part of The Story of two worlds), ~8B+, Cresciano, Switzerland, 116 kb
Samuel Ometz on The Dagger (second part of The Story of two worlds), ~8B+, Cresciano, Switzerland
© Samuel Ometz collection (fb)

Samuel Ometz, 19, has repeated Dave Graham's The Story of two worlds, ~8C, at Cresciano, Switzerland.

It was quite fitting The Story... became his first ~8C as his first ~8B+, almost two years ago, was The Dagger i.e the stand start to the same problem.

This problem has seen a lot of ascents (relatively speaking) over the last few years. My guess is better beta, especially in the second part, has a lot to do with it.

Samuel Ometz:

Concerning the grade I really don't know... last year I was sure it was deserving the 8C grade, the first part to get into the dagger was really hard for me and I could only climb it a few times, I had to find my own beta as I was too weak for any other betas.
The first part was feeling like solid 8B to me, followed by The Dagger, which was feeling like 8B too. Adding the pump factor, I was sure that 8C was correct.

This year though, I tried again some other betas and found the Jernej Kruder's beta really good (no chance last year), so I checked the moves of The Dagger part again, had to dry the finish holds for a while, and then on my first try with nearly dry holds at the end I could send.

The thing that makes me think of 8B+ is that I didn't climb perfectly on the send (few small mistakes or unprecisions with the feet) and I am not sure I can climb 8C with doing mistakes, already 8B+ can be hard haha.

But then I don't know, because two seasons ago, I spent around 10 days to climb The Dagger, so that I have every feelins perfect with this part and can climb in a very fast and efficient way and last year I also spent around 5-8 day working the sit, so that I reclimbed The Dagger part many, many times.

I already thought I was not gonna fall in this part when coming from the bottom, if my hands wouldn't get sweaty...

But I think that I am in really good shape too, so it's hard to compare with last winter, when I always felt weak.

The forecast for Ticino looks rather promising for the next few days, so with any luck more projects may fall, why not Jimmy Webb's Big Kat, ~8B+?

Samuel Ometz is sponsored by: Monkee Clothing



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