UKC

[UPDATE 2] Dawn Wall: The difficult pitches are all done by Tommy

Kevin Jorgeson on the razors of pitch 15, Dawn Wall, Yosemite, 126 kb
Kevin Jorgeson on the razors of pitch 15, Dawn Wall, Yosemite
© Chuck Fryberger/Sparkshopclimbing

Tommy Caldwell has now done the first 20 pitches of the Dawn Wall-project and reached Wino Tower, i.e all the 5.14 and 5.13 pitches but one. Only injury or extreme weather can now stop him from completing this ground breaking and historic first ascent.

Meanwhile, Kevin is preparing for yet another attempt on pitch 15. He has been very close but so far bad skin has stopped him climbing through the razors on the boulder crux of the pitch. If/When he succeeds, his plan is to continue via the original Pitch 16, the dyno pitch.

UPDATE: Kevin has now done pitch 15 after an epic and emotional fight.

Tommy: Today Kevin managed to climb pitch 15 in the most inspired climbing moment of his life. It was such an intense and incredible thing to witness. It's not over yet, but things are looking good.

Pure joy. Pitch 15 finally went down after 11 attempts over 7 days. Riding high, I stuck the dyno on Pitch 16, but fell in the corner right above the no hands stance. Back to finish that tomorrow.

UPDATE 2: Kevin has now also done the whole original Pitch 16, the dyno pitch. I don't know whether he climbed the original pitch as one long or two shorter pitches. This is a possibility as you reach a no hands stance above the dyno crux.
The important thing is that he has now done all the really difficult pitches and all that separates him from relatively easy terrain is one 8b and two 8a+'s.

The battle continues, but success seems very close now!

Tommy Caldwell is sponsored by: Black Diamond, Bluewater Ropes, Clifbar, Climb On, La Sportiva, Patagonia and REVO Sunglasses

Kevin Jorgeson is sponsored by: Black Diamond, adidas, FiveTen, Sterling Rope, Asana



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