UKC

Dartmoor Bouldering Roundup

Mike Cleverdon has been in touch with a round-up of bouldering action from the South West of England, including some impressive first ascents and repeats of his own - completing Pe'ahi 8A at Bonehill Rocks (Bone Hill) and Super Duper Trooper 8A at Saddle Tor​.

Climbing the full line of the famous Wave feature at Bonehill Rocks from a very low sit down start, Pe'ahi takes the left hand side of the Wave in its entirety, starting from sitting beneath the start holds of Tsunami 7C+.

Mikey Cleverdon climbing Pe'ahi, 130 kb
Mikey Cleverdon climbing Pe'ahi
© Mikey Cleverdon Collection

Pe'ahi was a long term project for Mike and he considers it as another contender for the hardest problem in the South West of Britain. He explained: "This line has been tried by a few wads over the years and is a significant feature on the moors, one of the best if not the best in my opinion." The line could potentially be 8A+, as Mike claims it to be his hardest problem yet, but having never completed an 8A+ before he is reluctant to give it the higher grade for now.

Mike's attempts were stopped suddenly by a stroke which he suffered in October 2011 and he has been working back up to where he left off ever since. He added: "Completing this project has literally been a dream of mine, something I did not think was possible for me. To climb it really is an enormous milestone in my personal achievements."

Mikey Cleverdon on Super Duper Trooper, 121 kb
Mikey Cleverdon on Super Duper Trooper
© Tom Bunn

Since the ascent of Pe'ahi a few locals have turned their attention to adding the sit start moves to the other problems on the boulder. Dave Henderson was the first to succeed by adding to The Wave Traverse, resulting in The New Wave Traverse and bumping it up from V9 to V10. 

To top it off a couple of days ago Mike climbed the First Ascent of the sit start to the Dartmoor ultra classic "Super Trooper" 7B+/V9 dubbed "Super Duper Trooper" 8A/V11 at Saddle Tor.

"I tried this quite a bit last season after cheerfully working my way through all the Tor has to offer and adding a couple of my own additions, I'd completed nearly everything bar Dave "king of the moor" Henderson's epic "Abba Gold"!"

Mikey Cleverdon on Pe'ahi 8A, 106 kb
Mikey Cleverdon on Pe'ahi 8A
© Joe Harris

Mike also passed on some news of other ascents in the South West:

Young Alex Waterhouse has recently passed his driving test and is currently on a rampage of outdoor crushing - he made the 2nd ascent of Super Duper Trooper just a few days after I had climbed it.

He managed to capture his ascent in a short video:

Alex has also recently grabbed the first ascents of two long-standing projects over at Combeshead Tor: Aurora V8 is found on the popular Hanging Flakes boulder and Hypothesis V9/10 takes the central line on the classic Proof of Concept boulder. 

Alex has made a short video for the two ascents:

I’ve also heard that strong youth James Squire has made the second ascent of The Green Room V12 - a hard power endurance link up traverse also found on “The Wave” boulder at Bonehill. This problem has stood as the hardest problem on Dartmoor for the last 8 years first climbed by Dave Henderson and James’ ascent is testament to the time he has spent coming to Dartmoor this season and he has managed to tick his way through a large proportion of the hard problems at Bonehill. I doubt his momentum will stop here, let’s hope the excellent conditions continue for a while longer.

More information in this report from Rustypeg.co.uk and this one from Javu.co.uk

Mike is sponsored by: Dewerstone Clothing, Lyon Outdoor, Proto-col Green Magic and eKonomical-FLOODIT lamps



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