Nalle Hukkataival has made the post break first ascent of l'Alchimiste at Apremont, Fontainebleau.
When Marc Lemenestrel put up the original problem back in 1997 it was given 8B. Then someone decided to chop the holds off.
What remained was an 8B, but without the crux holds. Needless to say, it was deemed impossible. 8B is difficult even with holds.
Then, last year, Nalle (who else) made an effort to see if it really was impossible and found out that it probably wasn't. At least not for him.
He got very close last year, but as the problem doesn't have much in terms of actual holds, thus being extremely friction dependent, the right conditions are vital, and he had to leave empty handed. This year he waited patiently for the right day and did it.
So, how hard is this thing?
We'll have to wait for Nalle's verdict, but I'm going to stick my neck out and say it's probably harder than 8B...
Photo: Neil Hart, who also got the ascent on video.