In 2007, Chris Sharma made the first ascent of Three degrees of separation in the Biographie sector at Céüse, France. The only(?) way to get passed the three blank sections on the ~25m route is to dyno. Until now, no one has been able to repeat the route, and it's not due to lack of attention.
Between the World Cups at Briancon and Imst, Adam Ondra spent some time on rock in France. He didn't feel in great outdoor form as he has spent so much time on plastic lately, but Ondra is Ondra much like Bolt is Bolt and he still pulled off some remarkable feats.
Actually, already before Briancon he stopped at Ailefroide where he managed to onsight Face bouc, 8c, in rather hot conditions...
At Céüse, he made the first repeat of Sharma's Three degrees of separation, ~9a, a line he had been working previously without suceess.
I asked Adam about the grade, and here are his thoughts:
It is just too specific to grade, and I know for big dynoers like Jan [Hojer] the dyno is not that hard, but to get there fresh is quite a different story.
To me it felt like the hardest route in Céüse, but that doesn't mean that it is definitely at least 9a+, because it doesn't fit me that well, but my suggestion is 9a+ and we will see.
Moving on to Verdon and the steep Ramirole sector, he onsighted Spanish caravan, 8c, and Une chatte brulante sous un toît, 8b+, after falling at the crux of Promotion canne à pêche, 9a, when trying to onsight it (of course). The following day he did L'enculeur de moches, 8c, 2nd try.
Clearly he needs to get out more...
An email previously published here has been removed as it turned out there is a lot of confusion and different opinions about what actually took place.
Dave Graham: "People need to remember history clearly, as this hersay detracts from a very inspirational, and historic FA by Chris, and an incredible repeat by Ondra!"
According to both Dave and Chris Sharma, the route was always 8c or 8c+ up to the dyno, and they highly doubt any hold broke. "The truth is that Three degrees has changed very little if at all..."
Adam Ondra is sponsored by: Beal, Black Diamond, Entre-Prises, KIKU, Hudy Sports, La Sportiva and Montura