Ueli Steck Reclaims Eiger Speed Record

© Ueli Steck

Having previously held the Eiger Speed Record in 2007 and 2008, yesterday Ueli Steck beat Dani Arnold's 2011 time of 2 hours 28 and reclaimed the fastest time in an astonishing 2 hours 22 minutes and 50 seconds.

Ueli on Pointe Walker during his 82 summits challenge  © Ueli Steck
Ueli on Pointe Walker during his 82 summits challenge

Breaking the record for the third time was helped significantly by favourable conditions, Ueli claimed in a comment:

“It is a new record, but this was a result of the specific conditions. We can never compare ascents [on] a face like the Eiger. Conditions and weather are always different."

Known as the "Swiss Machine" for his solo missions based on speed and endurance, Ueli also managed to claim the Eiger North Face team speed record with Nicolas Hojac on 11th November. Climbing the Heckmair Route, the pair improved on Roger Schaeli and Simon Gietl’s 2011 record of 4 hours 25 minutes with a time of 3 hours 46 minutes.

Ueli Steck during his 2008 Eiger Speed Record

In August this year, Ueli completed his 82 Summits Challenge - in which he climbed all 82 peaks over 4,000m in Western Europe in just 62 days, using only muscle power to travel between mountains. The challenge took Ueli and his climbing partners through Switzerland, Italy and France and included over 1,000km of cycling and 100,000m of altitude.

Despite comments that he would no longer chase after risky solo challenges following his solo ascent of Annapurna last year, the older, more mellow Ueli doesn't appear to be slowing down too much...

Watch a video of Ueli climbing the Eiger with Kilian Jornet earlier this month:


I spend all yesterday following this guy. Great day with Ueli Steck in Eiger.Suunto I Petzl

Posted by Kilian Jornet on Monday, 9 November 2015

Ueli is sponsored by: Beal, Goal Zero, Julbo, Leki, Mountain Hardwear, Petzl and Scarpa

This post has been read 26,721 times

Return to Latest News

18 Nov, 2015
18 Nov, 2015
I climbed a new 50m route at the weekend. It took us quite a bit more than 2 hours 22 mins and 50 seconds. I think, although it looks like the same game on the outside, it isn't; coats for goal posts verses the World Cup! We did stop half way up for a large lunch, mind. Well done. James e
18 Nov, 2015
This is obviously very impressive from a physical conditioning point of view, but isn't it now getting a bit pointless from a climbing perspective?
18 Nov, 2015
Isn't all climbing pointless? That's what makes it so beautiful and satisfying on a very deep level; i know i could walk round or take a cable car - but i choose to go my way and no other. James e
18 Nov, 2015
I think his speed ascents of the 38 route are a sort of personal benchmark, a physical and psychological challenge, i really don't think he does these things for anyone but himself, it was looking likely something like this was on the cards, as he has been doing laps on the eiger with various partners for the last few weeks. Bravo an outstanding bit of climbing from the Swiss machine.
More Comments
Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email