An Early Christmas Gift for Alex Luger

Austrian climber Alex Luger completed his hardest multipitch route to date in Vorarlberg, Austria with The Gift earlier this year, which he considers to be one of the most difficult of its kind in the alps. Alex made the first free ascent in a day in August.

Alex Luger, 125 kb
Alex Luger
© Ray Demski

The first four pitches were established in 2005-2006 by Pio Jutz and in 2014, a further three pitches were added by Alex, creating a 350m climb. The difficulty of the seven pitches ranges from 6a-8c with protection which Alex describes as "mentally demanding!"

Alex told UKC:

"It´s one of the most beautiful lines in the Rätikon and until now the hardest first ascent I could free climb since I started opening new routes in the mountains. It took me two years to finally get the fitness level I needed and the conditions to redpoint the route."

Alex Luger climbs The Gift 8c, 350m, 156 kb
Alex Luger climbs The Gift 8c, 350m
© Beat Kammerlander

Alongside his first ascent of the 8b+ trad route Psychogramm in May 2014 and a repeat of Prinzip Hoffnung 8b/+ at Bürs in 2010, Alex is certainly no stranger to hard, bold climbs.

Alex Luger feeling the exposure on The Gift, 204 kb
Alex Luger feeling the exposure on The Gift
© Beat Kammerlander

Alex would like to thank the following for their support: Pio Jutz, Hanno Schluge, Helmut Scheichel, Flo Wild

Read a UKC interview with Alex here.

Alex is sponsored by: adidas and DMM

Forums 0 comments

This has been read 8,483 times
Return to News from April 2017