Adam Ondra has had a busy weekend. First he made the first ascent of Vicious Circle, 9a+/b, at Misja Pec, Slovenia, then he moved on to Medveja in Croatia, where he made the first ascent of More, 9a, as well as onsighted The Core, 8c/+, and Outdoorfingerspiele, 8c.
This is what Adam had to say:
I have been feeling quite strong on my recent trip to Istria. My main goal was the project [at Misja Pec] that I bolted last spring, and came really close to sending last fall, but never trying it while being rested enough.
This time, it went pretty fast and I sent the project on my third go of the day. And we could go to check out new zones across the border in Croatia.
I called it 'Vicious Circle' and it weighs in around 9a+/b. It is a left start into 'Sanski par', 9a, which is a power resistant 9a in the roof. This variation puts the old 'Sanski par' into a different level. You climb 16 moves of 8c+ into a bad rest and finish with 'Sanski Par'. You basically skip just the first 6 moves, which is no more than 8a. So the part of 'Sanski par' you do is still about 8c+. In total 30 moves with one bad rest into an easier finish of another 20 moves.
The harder start requires a totally different approach to climbg the upper part, as it is not possible to start and sprint through the whole route like in Sanski par. You have to dominate the moves in order to climb slower and find the tiny details that allows you to shake out a little bit.
The next stop was Medveja, a new secret zone in Croatia. It was one of the best days of climbing ever as I onsighted two 8c's ('The Core' is considered 8c+ by those few, who repeated the route) and the first ascent of 'More', 9a.
World record maybe? Haha.
Most of the routes are slightly overhanging, crimpy on super solid rock with a minimum of Sika and in general fitting my style pretty well.
The last day I tried a project in Pandora, a different zone in Istria, which is definitely pretty hard in the region of 9b or more. Something like 20m of bouldering in the roof. Definitely a lot of rock around there worth returning for.
Photo by Radmil Schneider.