UKC

Sean McColl on Gaia E8 6c Video

© Sean McColl

The day after winning the CWIF title with a gutsy performance involving contortion, multi-dynos and lots of brain-power, you'd expect Sean McColl to allow himself a day off...

However, keen to try out our "legendary" gritstone climbing, Sean headed to Black Rocks alongside Jorg Verhoeven to try the bold and technical Gaia E8 6c - as his first gritstone trad route! Although well-known as a frequent finalist in World Cup boulder and lead events, trad climbing is not Sean's speciality.

After toproping the line a couple of times, Sean decided to go for the lead - successfully climbing the route with perfect execution. Sean has uploaded a video and posted a full write-up about Gaia on his blog, discussing the climb in detail and making some interesting comments about trad headpointing.

"How do you prepare for a Gritstone route? It was a bit strange for me, but I treated it like a competition, focus.

"The experience was so different than anything else I’ve done in climbing; it’s hard to explain but I will try. The moves on Gaia are not especially hard, but doing them that high above a piece that you yourself have to place is unnerving. When I did the route, I did it with 99.9% efficiency and there was not a shred of doubt in my mind. It felt similar to competing in the fact that I was focused, I had one goal and I knew my ability. It felt completely different to competing having to put in a piece of gear and the fact that the moves were practised."

Read more in Sean's blog post.

Visit Sean's Facebook Page.


This post has been read 13,799 times

Return to Latest News


Sean McColl
North Vancouver

Birthdate: September 3rd, 1987

Hometown: North Vancouver, Canada

Currently Living: North Vancouver, Canada

Height: 169cm...

Sean's Athlete Page 14 posts 1 video


Support UKC

As climbers we strive to make UKClimbing.com the kind of website we would love to visit, with the most up-to-date news, diverse and interesting articles, comprehensive gear reviews, breathtaking photographs and a vast and useful logbook system. As a result, an incredible community has formed around the site - we’ve provided the framework but it’s you who make the website what it is today. If you appreciate the content we offer then you can help us by becoming an official UKC Supporter. This can be a one-off single annual payment or a more substantial payment paid monthly or yearly which includes full access to Rockfax Digital and discounts on Rockfax print publications.

If you appreciate UKClimbing.com then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter.

UKC Supporter

  • Support the website we all know and love
  • Access to a year's subscription to Rockfax Digital.
  • Plus 30% off Rockfax guidebooks
  • Plus Show your support UKC Supporter badge on your profile and forum posts
UKC/UKH/Rockfax logo

17 Mar, 2016
Very smoothly done!
17 Mar, 2016
Did he just campus the crux?!
17 Mar, 2016
What a beautifully smooth and spectacularly rapid ascent!
17 Mar, 2016
Nice video, and glad he enjoyed the experience. But newsworthy? "One of the worlds strongest climbers headpoints Gaia" ...I should think so too. Does he have a day job, or is he a full time pro? Loads of us have headpointed that route, with full time jobs, weak arms, average technique, rubbish diets etc.
17 Mar, 2016
Probably not but I still enjoyed the video. Especially with a different sequence to ascents I've seen in the past.
More Comments
Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email LinkedIn Pinterest