Ropes of Maui 8B for Orrin Coley

© Orrin Coley

20 year-old Orrin Coley has climbed his second 8B by ticking Pete Robins' Ropes of Maui (f8B) 8B at Dinas Mot. The problem has attracted some attention recently with successful visits from Shauna Coxsey (UKC News Report) and Dave Barrans.

Orrin Coley on Ropes of Maui 8B  © Orrin Coley
Orrin Coley on Ropes of Maui 8B
© Orrin Coley

The problem is a sit start of desperate climbing (around 7C+/8A in its own right) finishing up the existing 8A, Stoned Temple Pilots and is found in the 'Hall of the Mountain King' which is an unusual cave formed by a leaning boulder, on the hillside underneath Dinas Mot.

Orrin's first 8B was Keen Roof at Raven Tor, which he managed last month. It had been a long term project of his for about two and a half years. Orrin told UKC:

"I first tried it when I was 18 and realised I could do all the moves, so why not start working it! I'd only done one 8A at that point so it was way over my head! I couldn't really describe a better feeling than finishing that off."

Over the past 9 months, Orrin has stepped up his training, working closely with Tom Randall and Ollie Torr from Lattice Training.

"I think I've made some real gains. So lately I figured I'd put it to the test and hit some rock! Billy Ridal and I had been talking about having a short trip to North Wales for a while now, mainly to try a few 8A's and easier classics."

Both Billy and Orrin completed Stoned Temple Pilots 8A in just a couple of goes - thanks to beta shared by James Noble at the time - before taking a look at Ropes of Maui, which Orrin ticked in just two sessions:

"I never expected it to go that fast really, it was always on my mind to at least try it as I thought the style of it would suit me well being quite crimpy, but I never believed I'd actually do it in our short time there."

He added:

"Billy was pretty close to sending it as well, making some really good links. I wouldn't be surprised if he does it in the near future too."

Orrin has had a busy few months putting his training to good use, some of the highlights being Dark Art 8A at Anston Stone Woods and Notes to Self 8A+ at Forest Rock.

What's next?

"All I ever want to do is climb things and try harder, my main aim at the moment is to try and consolidate 8A+, there's a few climbs around the Peak I want to try but I guess whatever happens, happens! I'm currently building up for the British Bouldering Championships, after placing 4th last year I want to prove to myself that I'm improving and show some consistency in my results. Then afterwards I'll be heading to Magic Wood and see if I can get some cool lines done there!"

This post has been read 8,693 times

Return to Latest News

Orrin Coley is a top UK boulderer based in Leicester. He has climbed several hard first ascents at Forest Rock, including two Font 8B+'s and has repeated Ben Moon's Voyager Low Start (Font 8B+).

Orrin's Athlete Page 9 posts 6 videos

Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email