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Asagimadara, ~8C, by Ryuichi Murai

© Murai coll.

Ryuichi Murai on Asagimadara, ~8C, Mizugaki, Japan  © Murai coll.
Ryuichi Murai on Asagimadara, ~8C, Mizugaki, Japan
© Murai coll.
Ryuichi Murai has made what probably is the 7th ascent of Tokio Muroi's Asagimadara, ~8C, at Mt. Mizugaki, Japan. This was the sixth ~8C for Murai and he needed three days.

On Instagram, he comments:

Yesterday, I tried it for the first time in one year. I could remember my moves soon because Mizugaki is in the best season now. I had attempted to deal with the crux move (4th hold) by campusing so far. But I couldn't do the move.

Eventually, I could solve it by leaving my right heel on the start hold.

Actually I wrote this move off because of my short reach (he is ~167cm), when I touched Asagimadara at first, so I felt more surprised than happy!!

The first ascent of Asagimadara was made by Tokio Muroi (unknown when) after more than 100 days of work. As always, he didn't use any crashpad. He suggested rokudan/6-dan+, which is the Japanese equivalent of ~8C+, but it has since settled around ~8C.

Ryuichi Murai has previously repeated Orochi, Babel, Vanitas, Hydrangea, Spray of light and Asagimadara.

It took him less than one year.

Ryuchi Murai is sponsored by: Five Ten, Friction Labs and Organic climbing


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