UKC

Barbara Zangerl & Jacopo Larcher climb the Zodiac Free

Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher after topping out on the Free Zodiac, El Capitan, Yosemite, 127 kb
Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher after topping out on the Free Zodiac, El Capitan, Yosemite
© Jacopo Larcher coll.
Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher has made what's likely to be only the 3rd free ascent of The Zodiac on the Southeast face of El Capitan, Yosemite. The first free ascent was made by the Huber brothers in October 2003, and then Tommy Caldwell repeated it shortly afterwards. Since then: no repeats.

After all the work we had put into it, it felt so good to top out "Free Zodiac"(5.13d) today. We spent 5 days on the wall and we both lead all the pitches harder than 5.12+, making the 3rd(?) ascent of the route. 

It felt pretty hard for the grade, as most of the hard pitches are really complex to climb, but they are all amazing. Most of them seemed impossible at the beginning, but with dedication and perseverance everything becomes possible.

The original grade of the hardest pitches were 8b+ for The Nipple and 8b/+ for the Open book, but after Tommy's ascent they came down to 8b and 8a+.

In total the route has 16 pitches in total, six of which are 5.13's and six are 5.12.

Jacopo Larcher is sponsored by: Black Diamond, La Sportiva, Sterling Rope and The North Face

Barbara Zangerl is sponsored by: Black Diamond, La Sportiva and Sterling Rope



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