UKC

La cicatrice de l'ohm, ~8B trav(?) by Melissa LeNevé

© Johan Kervella

Melissa LeNevé on La cicatrice de l'ohm, ~8B, Fontainebleau  © Johan Kervella
Melissa LeNevé on La cicatrice de l'ohm, ~8B, Fontainebleau
© Johan Kervella
Melissa LeNevé has made the first female ascent of Arnaud Ceintre's La cicatrice de l'ohm, ~8B, at Mare aux Corneilles, Fontainebleau.

This was the first of the grade for Melissa in Fontainebleau, and only the second female ascent of an ~8B in the area after Catherine Miquel's ascent of Trafic.

Regarding the question of wether it's a traverse or not, she told Fanatic Climbing:

Hard to say. The first time I went there with Caroline Sinno I found the line very nice. It's starting from the ground to the top, so for me it's less a traverse than "Misti" for example, but there are 10-15 moves to link to the top...

The problem is very crimpy with a crux on small edges and hard body tension. It took me 4/5 sessions with sometimes poor conditions.

 

Melissa LeNevé is sponsored by: adidas, Five Ten and Petzl


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8 Dec, 2016
bloody hell, if this were anywhere else I wouldn't be too fussed, but an actual Fontainebleau 8B is pretty scary. Also, "first female ascent": I hate to say it, but is this officially a thing now?
8 Dec, 2016
Has been for a while. Also remember "first male ascent" when Tommy Caldwell free climbed The Nose.
8 Dec, 2016
FFA, meh. I'm waiting on the FNBGNA. First none binary, gender neutral ascent. In fact, I could maybe do a few V4s at stanage and claim this. Guidebook fame awaits...
8 Dec, 2016
I think it'll die out when Ashima starts putting up V18s. :) Was going to say V17, but I presume that new f9A (by some bloke) is V17!!!
8 Dec, 2016
Well it depends if you think the fact a woman has climbed something no other women ever has before is worthy of note or not. Doesn't offend me, and actually I think its a good thing as women put up very, very few new routes regardless of grade so this way, particularly when it is a hard route / problem is a way of recognising that a woman has broken into a realm previously only occupied by men. Of course a true first accent of the first human being to climb xyz trumps simply being the first of your sex, but as I said women make very very few first accents.
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