UKC

European Championship 2017 - Report

© Newspower.it

The European Championship in Lead and Speed took place in Campitello di Fassa, Italy last weekend, kicking off the 2017 lead competition season. Great Britain's Molly Thompson-Smith qualified for the semi-final and finished a highly respectable 14th place. Romain Desgranges of France took his second European Champion title - after winning in Chamonix in 2013 - and Belgian climber Anak Verhoeven impressed with a stunning 15 move lead ahead of Mina Markovic (SLO). The competition was an IFSC Europe event, run by the European Council of the IFSC.

Romain Desgranges on his way to a win  © Newspower.it
Romain Desgranges on his way to a win
© Newspower.it

The women's line-up consisted of a mix of younger and older talent, with 16 year-old Laura Rogora - known for her outdoor ascents up to 9a - qualifying for the final on home turf, and 29 year-old Mina Markovic at opposite ends of the finalists' age spectrum. Despite dominating in the qualifying rounds, Slovenian Janja Garnbret suffered a surprising heel slip halfway up the final volume-ridden climb, leaving the door open for Mina Markovic and Jessica Pilz to take 2nd and 3rd place respectively.

Anak Verhoeven looking strong in the final  © Newspower.it
Anak Verhoeven looking strong in the final
© Newspower.it

Women's podium: Markovic, Verhoeven, Pilz  © Newspower.it
Women's podium: Markovic, Verhoeven, Pilz
© Newspower.it

In the men's event, 34 year old Frenchman Romain Desgranges ranked top in each round and continued his run of form in the final, making the most of the awkward rests and taking his second European Championship title. Domen Skofic of Slovenia timed out as he was nearing the podium place positions, missing out to Adam Ondra (CZE) and Jakob Schubert (AUT) who placed 2nd and 3rd respectively. Adam Ondra's showmanship perhaps tired him and prevented a higher score, as he enthusiastically waved to the crowd whilst in a kneebar rest.

Adam Ondra recovers and waves to the crowd in a rest  © Newspower.it
Adam Ondra recovers and waves to the crowd in a rest
© Newspower.it

Men's podium: Ondra, Desgranges, Schubert  © Newspower.it
Men's podium: Ondra, Desgranges, Schubert
© Newspower.it

The first round of the IFSC Lead World Cup takes place in Villars, Switzerland this weekend.

European Championship (L,S) - Campitello di Fassa (ITA) 2017

MENs lead

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Romain Desgranges FRA 50 49
2 Adam Ondra CZE 47+ 47+
3 Jakob Schubert AUT 45+ 47+
4 Hannes Puman SWE 36 46
5 Domen Skofic SLO 40 45
6 Thomas Joannes FRA 47 35+
7 Marcello Bombardi ITA 45+ 28
8 Sascha Lehmann SUI 42+
9 Fedir Samoilov UKR 36
10 Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 35+
11 Loïc Timmermans BEL 34
12 Michael Piccolruaz ITA 31+
13 Yuval Shemla ISR 31+
14 Georg Parma AUT 31+
15 Filip Schenk ITA 31+
16 Christoph Hanke GER 31+
17 Max Rudigier AUT 31
18 Sam Avezou FRA 30
19 Jorg Verhoeven NED 30
20 Vladislav Shevchenko RUS 26+
Full results

WOMENs lead

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Anak Verhoeven BEL Top 50
2 Mina Markovic SLO 46 35+
3 Jessica Pilz AUT 45+ 35+
4 Janja Garnbret SLO 47 34+
5 Salomé Romain FRA 42+ 30
6 Laura Rogora ITA 42+ 27+
7 Katharina Posch AUT 42+ 26+
8 Nolwenn Arc FRA 42+ 23+
9 Julia Chanourdie FRA 37+
10 Heloïse Doumont BEL 37
11 Hannah Schubert AUT 36+
12 Anne-Sophie Koller SUI 35+
13 Vita Lukan SLO 35
14 Molly Thompson- Smith GBR 34+
15 Mia Krampl SLO 34+
16 Eva Maria Hammelmüller AUT 34+
17 Alina Ring SUI 34+
18 Ievgeniia Kazbekova UKR 34
19 Claudia Ghisolfi ITA 34
20 Katherine Choong SUI 33
Full results


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5 Jul, 2017
Replay (commentary in Italian) available here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-NaiTOm8GOc&feature=youtu.be
5 Jul, 2017
It's worth saying Domen Skofic was timed out because of a new rule. Lead time is now reduced to 6 minutes down from 8. From Domen's Instagram: All of you who watched the European Championship last night know what happened in the men's finals. I would like to say that the main point of lead climbing is, who comes the highest. At least that's how it was when I started climbing and if this is boring for the audience to watch than @ifsclimbing should just end the lead discipline instead of making more and more time limitations. I feel like I don't have the time to enjoy the routes I get on comps anymore. In my heart I know I made the high point yesterday even though I gave up because the judge was calling me down. I was the only victim of the new rule yesterday and my complaining might seem funny to many but you don't know how that feels until you're on that same spot. The feeling when you know you lost the title of the European Champion exceeding the time limit for just 5 seconds. https://www.instagram.com/p/BWCza76hbX1/
5 Jul, 2017
Thanks, added that in now.
6 Jul, 2017
Seems like BS. Surely you should have a limit for attempts, not how long you can climb? Even if you could climb 10c slowly, you might be beaten by a 9b+ climber who can speed climb a route?
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