Ned Feehally climbs direct finish to Renegade Master

© Nick Brown

Ned Feehally has made the first ascent of a direct finish to Renegade Master (E8 6c) (7C+) at Froggatt Edge , naming it Ill Behaviour. The climb starts as for Renegade Master, but instead of venturing right via positive crimps, it heads directly upwards on tiny sloping edges and a huge dyno to the lip.

Ned Feehally setting up for the dyno on Ill Behaviour  © Nick Brown
Ned Feehally setting up for the dyno on Ill Behaviour
© Nick Brown

Ned began attempting the project a couple of years ago, although his progress was slow due to poor conditions throughout the winter months. He was tipped off to the project by Dan Varian several years ago and decided to try the line once he had 'run out of other things to do.'

He told UKC: 'The line is amazing. It's quite a hard jump and I'm not so good at jumping, so I didn't know if it was my bag, but it's nice to stick it out. It's hard to say whether it's tricky or committing, probably a combination… It's quite a hard move, but it's also hard to commit when you're up high.'

The top dyno is extremely committing, and Ned worked the move on a top rope before having roughly 15 attempts from the bottom. Eventually the Peak District bestowed Froggatt with some good conditions and he managed the problem on his first attempt of the day.

When interrogated about a grade, Ned simply said 'I'm not bothered really. It's a bit more important than that, isn't it?'

Shauna Coxsey also managed a fast ascent of Renegade Master, climbing it on her third attempt. She stood on the ledge before the top out composing herself for several minutes, before finally committing to the slopey mantel at around 8 metres.

Shauna Coxsey on Renegade Master  © Nick Brown
Shauna Coxsey on Renegade Master
© Nick Brown

Shauna on the scary top out  © Nick Brown
Shauna on the scary top out
© Nick Brown

Jim Pope also had a productive day at the boulder last week, managing both Renegade Master and Screaming Dream (E7 6c) . He went on to add a new line on the right of the boulder, which heads through a roof and finishes as for Renegade. He named the climb 'Papal Concave.'

Jim said: 'The climb isn't as good as Screaming Dream or Renegade Master, but it has some nice, new moves if you've done all the others on the boulder! I'm pretty bad at putting a grade on things, it could be anything between 7C and 8A!'

Jim Pope on his new line 'Papal Concave'  © Sam Lawson
Jim Pope on his new line 'Papal Concave'
© Sam Lawson

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Ned is one of the few people in the world to have flashed 8B+ and has climbed multiple 8C's

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8 Nov, 2017
Ace news and a great picture, classic Brown. Any more footage knocking about?
8 Nov, 2017
It'll surface eventually...
8 Nov, 2017
Impressive goings on. Shauna's third go ascent is particularly impressive. Were the 3 trys all ground up attempts or did they include top rope attempts?
8 Nov, 2017
What's the deal with Renegade Master, is it actually the case that the way people finish now is different to the FA or was that a bit of a misrepresentation? If not, has the original way been repeated? Regarding the new line, it certainly sounds a significant last great problem. Good effort!
9 Nov, 2017
I was wondering this last night. When Neil Bentley did the second ascent on Hard Grit, he topped out just around the arete. Over the years this top out migrated rightwards and it is now common to shuffle right onto the shelf before contemplating a top out. This is definitely not where the original line went, but if you are topping out round the corner it's a bit artificial to stay off the ledge. I remember writing about where the original went in a column I wrote for Climb Magazine in the 2000s, but I can't find a copy of my article on my computer. From memory I think I said in the article that Jerry originally topped out direct up the crack on the first ascent. However, I think I said this in the context of describing Rich Simpson's ascent, and I may have been told this by Rich himself, which in hindsight may raise question marks over the reliability of what I was told. I may also be misremembering. It would be interesting if someone from UKClimbing (Rob?) could ask Jerry where his original route went.
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