UKC

Ned Feehally climbs direct finish to Renegade Master

Ned Feehally has made the first ascent of a direct finish to Renegade Master (7C+) at Froggatt Edge , naming it Ill Behaviour. The climb starts as for Renegade Master, but instead of venturing right via positive crimps, it heads directly upwards on tiny sloping edges and a huge dyno to the lip.

Ned Feehally setting up for the dyno on Ill Behaviour, 183 kb
Ned Feehally setting up for the dyno on Ill Behaviour
© Nick Brown

Ned began attempting the project a couple of years ago, although his progress was slow due to poor conditions throughout the winter months. He was tipped off to the project by Dan Varian several years ago and decided to try the line once he had 'run out of other things to do.'

He told UKC: 'The line is amazing. It's quite a hard jump and I'm not so good at jumping, so I didn't know if it was my bag, but it's nice to stick it out. It's hard to say whether it's tricky or committing, probably a combination… It's quite a hard move, but it's also hard to commit when you're up high.'

The top dyno is extremely committing, and Ned worked the move on a top rope before having roughly 15 attempts from the bottom. Eventually the Peak District bestowed Froggatt with some good conditions and he managed the problem on his first attempt of the day.

When interrogated about a grade, Ned simply said 'I'm not bothered really. It's a bit more important than that, isn't it?'

Shauna Coxsey also managed a fast ascent of Renegade Master, climbing it on her third attempt. She stood on the ledge before the top out composing herself for several minutes, before finally committing to the slopey mantel at around 8 metres.

Shauna Coxsey on Renegade Master, 154 kb
Shauna Coxsey on Renegade Master
© Nick Brown

Shauna on the scary top out, 137 kb
Shauna on the scary top out
© Nick Brown

Jim Pope also had a productive day at the boulder last week, managing both Renegade Master and Screaming Dream . He went on to add a new line on the right of the boulder, which heads through a roof and finishes as for Renegade. He named the climb 'Papal Concave.'

Jim said: 'The climb isn't as good as Screaming Dream or Renegade Master, but it has some nice, new moves if you've done all the others on the boulder! I'm pretty bad at putting a grade on things, it could be anything between 7C and 8A!'

Jim Pope on his new line 'Papal Concave', 133 kb
Jim Pope on his new line 'Papal Concave'
© Sam Lawson

Ned is sponsored by: Five Ten, Organic and Patagonia



Forums (10 comments)

I remember reading your article and being non plussed as the good crimp you get with your right you have when you are directly below the crack. So I did wonder whether Jerry was really saying he climbed the crack. ...
Did he not say Hi (from Ceuse) Nick? There are plenty of examples of a headpointed lines not making so much sense when climbed ground-up, where you tend to naturally follow the line of least resistance. As kris says...
I may have done the 3rd ascent? back in 2000 and copied Neil's roped sequence exactly and was instantly convinced that it was far to easy 7c+? Sport not 8a+ as Jerry claimed. He must have got his blinkers on or just...
I have a copy of climbing the US magazine dated August/ September 1995 which reports the first ascent which says the crux involves pulling up the crack, above the line swings right round the prow to finish with a nasty...
I spoke to Jerry yesterday about this actually. His recollection is that he went directly up the crack, past a pre-placed wire. I think this meant he grabbed the arete with his right hand, instead of rocking around....
I was wondering this last night. When Neil Bentley did the second ascent on Hard Grit, he topped out just around the arete. Over the years this top out migrated rightwards and it is now common to shuffle right onto the...

Read more

This has been read 10,376 times
Return to News from January 2018

Related posts