Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl repeat Magic Mushroom, 8b+ multi pitch on El Capitan

Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl have made the first repeat of the free Magic Mushroom, 8b+ multi pitch on El Capitan, Yosemite. This Steve Sutton and Hugh Burton route, was first climbed free by Tommy Caldwell and Justin Sjong in May 2012.

Barbara Zangerl on Magic Mushroom, 8b+ MP, El Cap  © Jon Glassberg
Barbara Zangerl on Magic Mushroom, 8b+ MP, El Cap
© Jon Glassberg

In its 27 (originally 31) pitches this route packs twelve pitches in the 5.13 to 5.14a (7c+ to 8b+) range and nine in the 5.12 (7a+ to 7c) range and is thus one of the most sustained one El Cap.

From Jacopo Larcher's Instagram:
We had to invest a lot of energies in this one. We had to clean a lot of pitches, figure out how to climb all those crazy corners, haul a lot of gear and spend a lot of days on the wall.
At the beginning we were just contemplating those pitches, wondering how it could even be possible to climb them. We had to be really creative and use every single part of our body to work our way up those corners.
I personally suck at this type of climbing, so it has been a real challenge and, at the same time, a huge satisfaction to climb it.

Big up once more to Tommy Caldwell I still can't imagine how someone could climb all those pitches in a day. You're a hero!

And Babsi's:
Free Magic mushroom what a blast!!! I never thought that I can climb all those crazy pitches. Especially the last hard one (just before the top) took everything I had...physically and emotionally. Falling on the last long move right before the chains made it to my biggest mental challenge.

This was the couple's third free route on El Cap after El Niño (2015) and The Zodiac (2016).


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Jacopo was born in Merano, South Tyrol, but grew up in Bolzano. He has Sport climbed up to 9a/+ and 8b+ onsight; Bouldered up to 8B/+; Trad up to E9/E10; multipitch up to 8b+ redpoint and 8a+ onsight on...

Jacopo's Athlete Page 7 posts 1 video

2008-first female bouldering 8b (pura vida/Switzerland) 3 Free climbs on El Capitan (2015 FFA El Nino, 2016 FFA Zodiac, 2017 FFA Magic Mushroom) FFA “Alpine Trilogy” (Kaisers neue Kleider, Silbergeier, End of...

Barbara's Athlete Page 5 posts



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