UKC

Speed intégrale, 9a, by Babsi Zangerl

© Jacopo Larcher

Babsi Zangerl on Speed Intégrale, 9a, Voralpsee, Switzerland  © Jacopo Larcher
Babsi Zangerl on Speed Intégrale, 9a, Voralpsee, Switzerland
© Jacopo Larcher
Barbara Zangerl has repeated Cédric Lachat's Speed Integrale, 9a, at Voralpsee, Switzerland. This was Babsi's first of the grade.

"What a day!!!!—at 7 a.m. I finished my nightshift at the hospital; right after we drove to Voralpsee; without any expectations🙈 Energy was pretty low in the morning, but somehow the day ended with this crazy fight through this big route! On my last try of the day-> I DID IT!!! „Speed integrale"...big surprise——sooooooo happy!"

Speed Intégrale is the extension of Beat Kammerlander's mega classic test piece Speed, 8c+, from 1995. This route finishes 3/4 up the wall, and Cedric "simply" continued the 8a+ Lucy to the top of the crag. At the time of the first ascent in 2010, he said that he didn't think that the extension added so much in terms of difficulty, but that the original would probably be given 9a itself anywhere else, so no doubt about the grade.

Barbara Zangerl is sponsored by: Black Diamond, Climbskin, Faza brushes, Friction Labs and La Sportiva


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21 May, 2018

Surely if Speed was given 8c+ in '95 and would be called 9a if it were elsewhere, then all the 9as need downgrading?

21 May, 2018

Or the 9as at that crag have climbed more recently, and been graded accordingly?

24 May, 2018

I'm not so surprised, that Beat's route has got a late upgrade. In those times people like Beat or Manolo (Zanolla) where kind of silent heroes, not so mediate, not so keen on assigning new milestones, just improving daily their own impressive skills. No reason for degrading other routes. I think with an increasing number of high end climbs there is need of more degrees to avoid incoherent crowds in certain ranges. The old discussion about Hubble and Action Directe was quite simple: Two routes, apparently of different characteristics, probably of different difficulties - two at the same degree or one degree for each. But what to do with 150 routes of 9a+ or more? Are they really well specified in a range from 9a+ to 9b+ (and 9c without confirmation)? And further on, when all these amazing 13 to 15 old rookies will reach their twenties, doing futurist FAs in factory style. Will we continue the antiinflacionist style of admitting only to the very best of all to move on carefully the scale for another 6th part of the French grading? Just a question?

24 May, 2018

Sorry Babsi, I first had to deliver another obsessive idea. Congrats! You are fantastic!

24 May, 2018

As a statement that doesn't make any sense. If something "would be 9a anywhere else" then that sounds as though it should be that grade. Of course, that's just one guy's opinion of the original route, but it seems likely that doing the extension at least would get one the grade tick.

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