UKC

IFSC Boulder World Championships Innsbruck - Report

The 2018 IFSC Boulder World Championships finals in Innsbruck weren't short of suspense and emotion. Team GB's Nathan Phillips qualified for his first IFSC senior final and placed 6th. Hannah Slaney finished a very commendable 11th place in the semi-finals - just a few weeks after her World Youth Championship win in Moscow - while Billy Ridal also qualified for semis and finished in 20th place.

Nathan Phillips competing in the men's Boulder final., 162 kb
Nathan Phillips competing in the men's Boulder final.
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

Nathan told UKC:

"Making finals has been a lifetime ambition and it felt amazing to make it a reality. Once I was in, I was just so happy to be there it really didn't matter what position I finished in. More finals to come hopefully!"

Janja Garnbret (SLO) dominated the qualifiers and semis, being the only athlete to flash 3 problems in the tough semi-final round. A complex first final problem involving a multi-move coordination jump was first solved by Staša Gejo (SRB). Garnbret topped the problem to rank in 1st place after boulder 1. No tops were achieved on W2, but Garnbret topped W3 and secured the World Champion title with one problem to spare. Seemingly overcome by the gravity of her achievement, Janja lacked her usual power on W4 and looked distracted. "I just felt so weak!" she told IFSC commentator Charlie Boscoe afterwards. "My coaches were shouting 'You are World Champion!'" When the buzzer sounded to signal the end of her round, Garnbret burst into tears on realising her bouldering goal for the year, having dominated the Lead circuit for so long and placed a disappointing 2nd in the Lead event due to time just days before.

Janja Garnbret in tears of joy., 125 kb
Janja Garnbret in tears of joy.
© Sytse van Slooten/IFSC

Multi-time World Cup champion Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) placed 2nd, once again coming close to an elusive World Champion title. Staša Gejo completed the podium, winning Serbia's first World Championship medal.

Women's podium in Boulder: Innsbruck 2018., 218 kb
Women's podium in Boulder: Innsbruck 2018.
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

In the men's event, three of the six finalists were Japanese - Kai Harada, Keita Watabe and Kokoro Fujii - alongside Jongwon Chon (KOR), Gregor Vezonik (SLO) and Nathan Phillips. 2018 Boulder World Cup champion Jernej Kruder (SLO) and 2016 World Champion Tomoa Narasaki (JPN), despite leading qualifications, missed one top in semis and were out of the finals. Kokoro qualified in 1st place for the finals, but it was his compatriot Harada who changed up a gear in the finals with 4 tops in 7 attempts - 2 of which were flashes.

Kai Harada on his way to a win., 190 kb
Kai Harada on his way to a win.
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

Following his visible disappointment in the World Youth Championships last month (where he placed 3rd) Harada burst into tears following a smooth flash of Problem 4 to take the his first Gold medal in a senior IFSC event. Chon achieved 3 tops in 9 attempts to take 2nd place, a feat matched by Gregor Vezonik in more attempts for zones to place 3rd.

Men's podium: Boulder, 172 kb
Men's podium: Boulder
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

Results

WOMEN bouldering

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Janja Garnbret SLO 3T3z 3 3 2T3z 7 7
2 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 2T3z 4 7 2T2z 4 3
3 Stasa Gejo SRB 2T3z 8 9 1T2z 1 6
4 Jessica Pilz AUT 2T3z 7 15 0T2z 0 4
5 Miho Nonaka JPN 2T3z 10 25 0T2z 0 4
6 Petra Klingler SUI 3T3z 10 9 0T0z 0 0
7 Berit Schwaiger AUT 2T2z 7 7
8 Sol Sa KOR 2T2z 8 7
9 Fanny Gibert FRA 2T2z 11 8
10 Margo Hayes USA 1T3z 2 10
11 Hannah Slaney GBR 1T3z 6 16
12 Katja Kadic SLO 1T2z 4 9
13 Alannah Yip CAN 1T2z 6 8
14 Ievgeniia Kazbekova UKR 1T1z 2 2
15 Tatiana Shemulinkina RUS 1T1z 3 3
16 Alex Puccio USA 0T3z 0 21
17 Manon Hily FRA 0T2z 0 16
18 Chloe Caulier BEL 0T2z 0 17
19 Johanna Färber AUT 0T1z 0 7
20 Katharina Saurwein AUT 0T1z 0 9
47 Emily Phillips GBR Qual' 0T3z 0 21
74 Jennifer Wood GBR Qual' 0T1z 0 3
Full results

MEN bouldering

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Kai Harada JPN 4T4z 10 10 4T4z 7 6
2 Jongwon Chon KOR 4T4z 9 6 3T4z 9 10
3 Gregor Vezonik SLO 4T4z 10 9 3T4z 9 17
4 Keita Watabe JPN 4T4z 11 10 2T4z 6 10
5 Kokoro Fujii JPN 4T4z 7 7 2T2z 5 4
6 Nathan Phillips GBR 4T4z 12 6 1T2z 5 6
7 Tomoa Narasaki JPN 3T4z 3 4
8 Jernej Kruder SLO 3T4z 6 6
9 Jan Hojer GER 3T4z 7 8
10 Jakob Schubert AUT 3T4z 8 8
11 Mickael Mawem FRA 3T3z 4 3
12 Aleksei Rubtsov RUS 3T3z 7 5
13 Gabriele Moroni ITA 3T3z 7 6
14 Manuel Cornu FRA 3T3z 10 4
15 Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN 3T3z 10 6
16 Florian Klingler AUT 2T4z 8 11
17 Adam Ondra CZE 2T2z 4 4
18 Nimrod Marcus ISR 1T3z 2 5
19 Sergii Topishko UKR 1T3z 4 7
20 William Ridal GBR 1T3z 4 9
33 Matthew Cousins GBR Qual' 2T3z 2 18
66 William Bosi GBR Qual' 0T3z 0 9
68 Aidan Roberts GBR Qual' 0T2z 0 2
Full results

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