UKC

Meshuga E9 6c by Jim Pope

Jim Pope has repeated Seb Grieve's Meshuga, E9 6c at Black Rocks, Derbyshire. The route is a bold, monolithic test piece that has seen off many attempts, ending in groundfalls and injury on more than one occasion.

Jim Pope repeats Meshuga E9 6c., 110 kb
Jim Pope repeats Meshuga E9 6c.
© Buster Martin

Following a successful competition season with multiple semi-final finishes in the IFSC Lead World Cups, Jim turned his attention to the grit.

Jim told UKC:

Ever since watching the classic film 'Hard Grit' when I was younger, I've always wanted to try Meshuga. Watching Seb chat his way up the climb and then pull off the classic move with his knee in the scoop stuck with me and I knew I wanted to try it.'

Jim first tried it last Sunday and ran up it a few times on top rope in poor conditions, then returned the next day. He explained:

'The weather and conditions were perfect, I top roped it once and felt really confident, but didn't have a helmet with me so decided not to go for the lead.' Jim's insistence on a helmet was well-founded, with Neil Gresham's famous ground fall and subsequent head injury in the '90s weighing on his mind.

photo
Jim Pope on Meshuga E9 6c.
© Buster Martin

Jim commented:

'I decided I'd go back Wednesday to send it. Again, after one top rope I felt good, so pulled the rope and led it. The route has a reputation of being dangerous, with the risk of a groundfall all the way up to the first break. The fact that the ground drops away from you and the tower stands so proud makes it a quite intimidating climb.'

Indeed, Jim couldn't escape images of past ascenionists and their very memorable falls flashing before his eyes. He explained:

'At the jug at the bottom I was seeing flashes of Neil Mawson falling off the move round the corner, which was a bit worrying but I managed to push those thoughts to the side and crack on. It all went smoothly. I can't remember much about it because I shut off whilst I was climbing, but when I topped out there was a family taking photos on top who started taking selfies with me topping out and trying to give me high fives!'

Summing up his ascent, Jim told us:

'Ever since my first go on it I was fixated. I'd never felt that kind of obsession with a route before and I just wanted to stand on top. It's a nice view to finish to.'

*photos are from Jim's working sessions on top-rope, hence the lack of helmet.

Jim is sponsored by: Climbskin, La Sportiva, Petzl and The North Face



Forums 32 comments

Awesome effort. Out of interest, was there any report on the use of mats for the ascent? Was walking past Meshuga when they were setting up a top rope on Wednesday, but didn't stick around long enough to see the...
Yes really. Various music genres have been blamed for violence over the decades, along with console games, books and other art forms. In the occasional case it may influence individuals, but overall it's nonsense.
Would be going climbing if my I had new shoes but I am sure people know that Adidas has purchased Five Ten and Adidas sponsor Drill music artists.... Drill is associated with all the stabbings in London. The other...
That's the theory but there's still a massive difference when you don't know the feel of the holds and without any mental/muscle memory of the moves, on a physical route which basically is a solo. And there's the...
If Sav didn’t post on every news thread implying he was best mates with who ever made the news. I wouldn’t be commenting. If he just used a tiny percentage of that time to go climbing, he might go some way to...
If you're going to hijack a thread, at least make it less f*cking banal. To the topic of the thread. Great achievement. Hard Grit lines seem to be less newsworthy these days and I guess rightly so. But it is still...

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