Meshuga E9 6c by Jim Pope

© Buster Martin

Jim Pope has repeated Seb Grieve's Meshuga, E9 6c at Black Rocks, Derbyshire. The route is a bold, monolithic test piece that has seen off many attempts, ending in groundfalls and injury on more than one occasion.

Jim Pope repeats Meshuga E9 6c.  © Buster Martin
Jim Pope repeats Meshuga E9 6c.
© Buster Martin

Following a successful competition season with multiple semi-final finishes in the IFSC Lead World Cups, Jim turned his attention to the grit.

Jim told UKC:

Ever since watching the classic film 'Hard Grit' when I was younger, I've always wanted to try Meshuga. Watching Seb chat his way up the climb and then pull off the classic move with his knee in the scoop stuck with me and I knew I wanted to try it.'

Jim first tried it last Sunday and ran up it a few times on top rope in poor conditions, then returned the next day. He explained:

'The weather and conditions were perfect, I top roped it once and felt really confident, but didn't have a helmet with me so decided not to go for the lead.' Jim's insistence on a helmet was well-founded, with Neil Gresham's famous ground fall and subsequent head injury in the '90s weighing on his mind.

Jim Pope on Meshuga E9 6c.
© Buster Martin

Jim commented:

'I decided I'd go back Wednesday to send it. Again, after one top rope I felt good, so pulled the rope and led it. The route has a reputation of being dangerous, with the risk of a groundfall all the way up to the first break. The fact that the ground drops away from you and the tower stands so proud makes it a quite intimidating climb.'

Indeed, Jim couldn't escape images of past ascenionists and their very memorable falls flashing before his eyes. He explained:

'At the jug at the bottom I was seeing flashes of Neil Mawson falling off the move round the corner, which was a bit worrying but I managed to push those thoughts to the side and crack on. It all went smoothly. I can't remember much about it because I shut off whilst I was climbing, but when I topped out there was a family taking photos on top who started taking selfies with me topping out and trying to give me high fives!'

Summing up his ascent, Jim told us:

'Ever since my first go on it I was fixated. I'd never felt that kind of obsession with a route before and I just wanted to stand on top. It's a nice view to finish to.'

*photos are from Jim's working sessions on top-rope, hence the lack of helmet.

This post has been read 10,398 times

Return to Latest News

Support UKC

As climbers we strive to make the kind of website we would love to visit, with the most up-to-date news, diverse and interesting articles, comprehensive gear reviews, breathtaking photographs and a vast and useful logbook system. As a result, an incredible community has formed around the site - we’ve provided the framework but it’s you who make the website what it is today. If you appreciate the content we offer then you can help us by becoming an official UKC Supporter. This can be a one-off single annual payment or a more substantial payment paid monthly or yearly which includes full access to Rockfax Digital and discounts on Rockfax print publications.

If you appreciate then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter.

UKC Supporter

  • Support the website we all know and love
  • Access to a year's subscription to Rockfax Digital.
  • Plus 30% off Rockfax guidebooks
  • Plus Show your support UKC Supporter badge on your profile and forum posts
UKC/UKH/Rockfax logo

25 Oct, 2018

Excellent work and a good write up. 

It's just a shame that Jim felt the need to resort to using 'send' and it would appear that the top rope has been photoshopped out?

25 Oct, 2018

Presumably the photos aren't from the successful attempt as he's not wearing a helmet, which he mentions he needed?

Top stuff from a strong lad!

25 Oct, 2018

No it says at the bottom that they're from top rope practice.. despite the lack of any rope, top or otherwise. I hope that it's not this beady eye that has encouraged the dislikers who thought it was the successful attempt.. 

25 Oct, 2018

Has this ever been done onsight, flashed or ground up?

Or have all ascents been after practice?

25 Oct, 2018

Well done bruva! Congrats young Jim! 

Great job fella!

More Comments
Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email LinkedIn Pinterest