Fri Night Vid Shawn Raboutou and Magnus Midtbø attempt Vecchio Leone
This week's Friday Night Video is an insight into how the top boulderers operate. Magnus Midtbø interviews Shawn Raboutou while the pair attempt the classic Swiss Font 8B, Vecchio Leone, at Brione.
Comments
Congrats to Shawn, he's been on fire lately. But a slight note/question about the other 9A's. AFAIK Seudan Soul has been repeated and also opinions of 8C+ seem to be around (IIRC). Return to Sleepwalker and Burden of Dreams are still unrepeated (but 'cause they haven't been tried)... Albeit naturally for a non local to tick these, will be extremely hard (or they will need a lot of time... especially for Burden, for which the conditions days aren't that many and not according calendar). Yu, repeated it is... By at least on other person... and as even the title impleys 8C+ is also thrown in the mix. https://www.8a.nu/news/soudain-seul-9a-8c+-by-camille-coudert-lu8pr
Opinions from repeaters so far are 9A, 8C+ and soft 9A. A more generous interpretation would be the only confirmed 9A!
Worth noting that Shawn is also rumoured to have climbed a line known as the Megatron project. Apparently the grade maths is 8C in to 8B+ which would put it in the 8C+/9A ball park.
https://climbing-history.org/climb/849/soudain-seul
https://climbing-history.org/climb/1147/megatron-project
I think you mean discreetly (without attracting attention) rather than discretely (separately or individually).
Not sure about that. At a minimum Jakob Schubert has tried Return of the Sleepwalker and Sleepwalker has had a few repeats so I'm not sure it's that hard to access. Burden I guess is more difficult location and conditions wise but Aidan Roberts went over to try it and found it very hard.