Italian alpinists François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre and Stefano Stradelli have established a new route on the west face of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey (3,773 m) on the Italian side of the Mont Blanc massif. 'Couloir Isaïe' (M8 – 7a/7a+ - AI5, 600m), tops out on Punta Brendel's west face at 3,498m.
The 600m, 12-pitch route, involves a range of technical rock, mixed and ice climbing – protected by removable gear and pitons – and includes difficulties up to M8, 7a/7a+, AI5.
On 13 February, the team bivouacked in the couloir at 3300m, where spindrift made for a rough night's sleep. They summited the following day at around 2 p.m.
Franz commented: "It is always difficult to reorder your thoughts after an adventure in the mountains. There are so many emotions and you never know where to start. On the west face of the Aiguille Noire, we had a great adventure.
"It wasn't easy, but thanks to our willpower and great teamwork, we did something really special that we will remember for a lifetime! I'd like to give a huge thanks to the Valle D'Aosta Weather Service, Alex Campedelli and all the staff of Rifugio Monte Bianco and the Sky Aviation helicopter company."
The classic south ridge of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey marks the first section of the longest climb in the Alps, the Peuterey Intégrale, which is over 4,500 metres in length and takes most parties three days to complete.
The Aiguille Noire is a serious undertaking, with loose rock and high exposure in stormy conditions. In August 2010, elite Belgian climber Chloé Graftiaux died after falling from the south face (UKC News).
I'm interested in why they want to thank these:
Dropped off and picked up later? Makes for easy climbing though.
Yep it was just for the photography, not the climbers!