UKC

Siara Fabbri climbs Compass North, 8B+

© Simone Tentori

Siara Fabbri has made the second female ascent of Compass North 8B+, in Fionnay, Switzerland.

The boulder is Fabbri's second at 8B+, having climbed New Base Line (f8B+) in Magic Wood last November. With her ascent of Compass North, she joins a select list of just eleven women to have climbed multiple boulders at 8B+ or harder.

Compass North was established by Clément Lechaptois in May 2022, with Aidan Roberts making the second ascent after having fallen from the final move to the lip on his flash go. Daniel Woods then flashed the boulder in October last year, saying 'everything about this line was in my style of climbing and it still was a good fight'.

Whilst Wood's queried whether the boulder would stand at 8B+, he did not suggest a downgrade, and said 'regardless if it's 8B/+, Compass North is still my hardest flash', and has since confirmed that the boulder is harder than Entlinge (f8B+), his other top-end flash. Shortly after Woods' ascent, Marine Thevenet made the first female ascent, her second at 8B+.

Both Roberts and Woods identified the boulder as a good contender for hard flash attempts, due to the relatively straightforward nature of the climbing, with the difficulty coming from the 'evil' crux hold and the power endurance required to make it through the ~20 hard overhanging moves before the easy top out.

'This was high up on my list to do this year', Fabbri said on Instagram, 'and I'm so psyched things could come together and I could put down this steep crimp test-piece by Clément Lechaptois'.

'A couple sessions prior I felt able to do it, but just needed the right conditions and skin. Luckily it got cold recently, and first go on the day I could stand on top of the giant boulder'.

'Grateful for the weekends this summer appreciating this beautiful valley. Some highlight moments were picking wild raspberries (a lot) and baking a pie, warming up in flower meadows, watching the Perseid meteor shower, and hiking to explore and find new lines'.

Fabbri has now climbed four boulders at 8B or harder since August last year. 


Check out the video below to see Marine Thevenet making the first female ascent of the boulder in October last year.


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