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Kai Whaley skips two grades to climb Sleepwalker, 8C+Newsflash

© Kai Whaley

17 year old Kai Whaley has made the eleventh ascent of Sleepwalker (f8C+), in Black Velvet Canyon, Red Rocks, Nevada. 

Whaley's ascent is the fourth this year, coming less than two months after Zander Waller suggested that the boulder should be downgraded to 'low-end' 8C. 

Like Waller, in climbing Sleepwalker, Whaley skipped both 8B+ and 8C. However, whilst Waller used new beta which allowed him to skip moves at both the beginning and the end of the boulder, the footage released by Whaley suggests that, at least for the final crux move, he used the original beta.

Waller used his long reach to skip moves at both the beginning and the end of the boulder.

Speaking on Instagram, Whaley had this to say: 

'I'm beyond words for this one. This climb has a big place in my heart because I grew up in Vegas watching legends try this climb. I'm so psyched to finally be strong enough to put this amazing climb down'.

'Thank you to Nate Williams for giving all the key micro betas and thanks to Dominic Arcana for letting me drag him out for support almost every sesh, I couldn't have done it without you guys'.


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